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  • Backpacking

    The following posts can provide an overview for someone who is thinking and trying backcountry / “wild” backpacking for the first time. I plan to write up something about what changes on hut-2-hut, hostel-2-hostel treks, but haven’t gotten around to that yet. For the time being I have notes I wrote up about walking the Camino de Santiago.

    I generally take an ultralight approach to backpacking. There are people who carry less, and carry a lot more than me, but I think most of this information would be useful for any approach. Paul’s outdoor guidebook is more complete than the notes I have written up.

    I have some older web pages which need to be updated, but might have useful bits

    My personal 3 seasons packing list

  • Backpacking with Kids

    One of the common questions is how young can start taking a kid backpacking.  The answer is, it depends on you, the child, and your expectations. If you are expecting the child carry their own stuff and cover mileage like an experienced thru-hiker, than the answer is likely the late teens. If you have kid appropriate expectations, the answer is whatever you are comfortable taking them on a trip. Just keep in mind that what thrills a child is very different in most cases to what thrills adults. The perfect example of this was a day hike when my daughter was 2 years old. We were in the midst of a majestic redwood forest with almost ethereal lighting due to some light fog.  It was spectacular.  Did she notice?  Nope.  What was interesting to her?  The pebbles under a water fountain. Pick them up, look at them, toss them down, repeat. She would have been happy to do that the whole day.

    Babies (less than 1 year):

    It’s actually not that hard to backpack with babies if you are prepared to carry some extra weight, though I did not go backpacking with my daughter when she was a baby. The biggest issue is making sure you baby doesn’t get too much sun, and that you keep your baby at a comfortable temperature. The primarily limitation is typically mom (or maybe dad’s) protectiveness. There’s a nice write-up of one couples experience backpacking with their baby in the Pyrenees. Over the years I have seen / talked with a number of families that took their baby backpacking. Personally, I think the baby doesn’t really notice the backpacking experience… the trips are more for the parents. In most case, mom carries baby in a sling or front carrier. Typically mom carries baby supplies and her personal gear. Dad plays pack mule and carries everything else.  Sir Joseph showed a “Jacket Expander” at ISPO 2011 which zips into the front out a down jacket providing room for a small one to be snuggled right next to a parent. Looks like a great idea for winter trips, though I have no experience using it.

    Toddler (1-3):

    In this stage of a child’s life they are growing a great deal developmentally. They are developing their walking skills. Many still put anything they can in their month as a way to explore: grass, dirt, small insects, toads, whatever they can catch. They have a very short attention span and get tired quickly. Taking a child this age backpacking requires a real commitment because you will need to be very patient. It’s unlikely that the child will go from one place to another in anything close to a strait line.  It will be from pebble, to leaf, to moss, to stick. If you are luckily it will be mostly forward in direction in a zig-zag pattern. Unless the child is exception, I wouldn’t expect more than a few miles in a day. When they get tired you can put them in a backpack kid’s carrier. Some kids love riding in these carries, but others get restless and want out after just a short bit. Most family I have seen deal with this by the mother carrying the kids pack, and the dad carrying eveything else. This means that the parents (when junior is on board) are carrying 25-50lbs more than they would when backpacking with just the two of them. Personally, this was the age that we went car camping with day hikes because we didn’t see any benefit from backpacking.

    Pre/Young School Age (4-7):

    At this age kids are old enough to know not to eat the poisonous berries, stay away from the poison oak, and to blow on a whistle if they get separated from you.  While most don’t have the greatest attention span or focus, they are able to walk along a path for an hour or so without becoming completely bored. We have found having some sort of supplemental activity really helps kids enjoy the time. Examples of this are: walking on interpretive trails, taking walks led by a naturalist, making it a treasure hunt (e.g. looking for interesting items you know the kids will be able to find), etc. The statement “I am tired” often means “I am bored”.  This becomes clear when you come across something that the child finds interested. The “tired” child will take off at a full run and happily play with energy that will make you feel tired just watching. If in decent physical shape, they are able to walk numerous miles carrying a light load. I would encourage to have children carry as much of there own gear as soon as it is practical. We found our girls wanted to carry a pack just like the parents. Get them used to carrying something as early as possible.  When my daughter was 4 she has a small Eagle Creek backpack which had a built in whistle. My daughter carried her own water, a snack, plastic plant & bird identification cards, a nature notebook & crayons which she draws pictures of interesting discoveries, and a toy (stuffed animal).  By the time she was 7 she was also carrying most of her clothing and a sit/sleep mat. I would recommend keeping their carry weight less than 10% of their body weight. I have also found that while there are some children who really enjoy hiking, most don’t.  There was a good article about backpacking with young children. My daughters answers at that age (5) would have been  almost identical to Chase. At this age I wouldn’t plan  to cover more than 3-4 miles in a day, though there are some exceptional kids that will do more distance than this.

    Late Elementary / Middle School (8-13):

    At this age one of the best things to do is bring a friend or three. Kids at this age really enjoy being with their peers. If they are with friends, a lot less effort has to be put into keeping them entertained. It’s also at this age that some children are able to take a sense of accomplishment from the act of hiking and can really enjoy it. That’s not to say a younger child can’t, just that it’s unusual. At this age I still recommend keeping their load to around 10% of their body weight. With reasonably light weight gear it’s possible for kids to carry all their gear at this age, though it might be necessary for a parent to carry one of the more bulky items (like the sleeping bag) because their pack doesn’t hold enough volume for all their items. While dedicated outdoor parents might take children backpacking before this age, it seems that this is the age that many kids go on their first trip. Unless the child is already an avid hiker, I recommend keeping trips below 4 miles where the destination (and ideally the hike) have kid friendly attractions: beach, lake, stream, horses, rope swings, berry bushes, rocks or trees to climb, etc. There have been exceptional kids that have thru-hiked with their parents, but most are unlikely to do more than 6-8 miles in a day.

    High School and Beyond (14+):

    By the thing a child is in high school, they are able to carry all their own gear.  The amount of shared items I would have them carry would depend on the child: level of physical fitness, if this is the first time they have gone backpacking, the type of backpack they are using, and the degree to which they want to pitch is with the shared items. Distance and difficult are limited by their physical fitness and interest level. Boys tend to eat a lot during high school because they are growing at lot.

    Gear

    It’s a bit harder to find good quality backpacking gear for kids that it is for adults.  The first issue is finding nicely made items. There used to be dedicated kids companies like Mountain Spouts, Mole Hill Mountain, etc but most are no longer in business. Many main line companies have kids lines, which typically parallels the lower end of their adult lines. The next issue is cost: you know that within a year or two the item will likely be outgrown. Ideally you can hook up with someone who has kids a bit older than yours and arrange for hand-me-downs. I would also encourage you to plan to pass on items which are of good quality to someone once your kids have outgrown them. We didn’t have anyone to get hand-me-downs from. Thrift stores and used kid clothing stores are often a good source. In the SF Bay area I typically didn’t find good kid’s outdoor clothing. When we were in Tahoe I found a fair bit, which makes me think that where you are has a strong influence on what may be in the thrift store.

    If you are purchasing new, I would suggest checking out places that specialize in high discounts, or outdoors companies that have regular clearance sales. We found the most of our kids clothing at sierra trading post, patagonia outlets,  campmor or REI clearance sales, and a few items from land’s end.  While it might be surprising, I strongly recommend looking at Patagonia kids clothing. While they are expensive retail, they are almost reasonably priced on sale, at the outlet, or best at an outlet during their memorial day / labor day sales. We have found that Patagonia kids clothing not only to be good quality, but seems to be cut in such a way that it takes longer to outgrow them. In a time that my daughter seemed to outgrow jackets every year or so, her Patagonia jacket lasted 3 years before she outgrew it, and it was still in good enough shape to pass it on to another girl. If there is something you need right now, and can’t find anywhere, I would likely look at REI.

    Rather than trying to find a good deal on an item as it was needed, we would often purchase something in a larger size in advance if we found a great deal and store it for a year or two. Example of this include a kids Marmot DriClim windshirt for $11, and Patagonia Puff Vest for $20, a kid’s size external frame pack for $10.

    A have a page about selecting Backpacks for Kids

    Scouting

    Typically boy scout backpacking is the opposite of ultra-light backpacking. Everything including the kitchen sink (or at least a dutch oven to make cobber) is taken. Gear is typically extremely heavy-duty to survive the riggers of younger boys.  Some good references for scouts include:

    Other resources: 

  • Backpacks for Kids

    I strong encourage keeping kids packs as light as possible. A 60 pound child shouldn’t be carrying more than a 15 pound pack, and I think it would be best if the pack was closer to 6lb. A 100 pound child shouldn’t be carrying more than 25 pound, and I would recommend keeping it below 9lbs or so. Notes about backpacking with kids are on another post.

    Conventional wisdom is that people should carry a backpack that’s <25% of their body weight. This is reasonable for moderate distances but will be fatiguing on a longer hike. There were several experiments evaluating how pack weight impacted soldiers physical performance. A key finding was that on all day exercises, fit/trained soldiers had a measurable increase of fatigue and a drop in agility when they carries more than 10-12% of their lean body weight. This matches my personal experience: I feel no more tired at the end of a 20 miles carrying 17lb as compared to carrying no pack. My one caveat that when over 8 lbs I need to shift some weight to my hips or shoulder pain will be fatiguing through the day. My wife found her sweet spot is <7lb.

    There are a number of factors which effect selection a pack for kids which aren’t a factor for adults:

    • Growth: Kids are going to grow.  If you want the pack to fit for more than a year you need to get a backpack which will adjust to a changing torso length.  This isn’t an issue if the pack is an ultralight shoulder strap only pack. Otherwise you will need a pack with an adjustable frame. External frame packs tend to be highly adjustable.  Deuter, VauDe, Osprey, and Kelty each make at least one kids size internal frame pack with a highly adjustable suspension.
    • Durability: In general, kids are pretty hard on equipment. Most kids are not sufficiently careful to use packs made from materials such as light-weight sil-nylon, so you really want a pack body to be made from a durable material such as Dimension Polyant, Dyneema, or Cordora.
    • Peer Pressure: Some kids like to be trail-blazers / thought leaders. For these sorts of kids, getting a pack which is different and in some way better than the standard is appreciated. Other kids want to have the same pack as everyone else, and will be terribly embarrassed being different, even if different is better.
    • Enforced sharing:  Boy scouts typically share equipment, food, etc. This means that even if all your child’s personal gear is ultra-light, the group might end up bringing 8lb tents, cast iron dutch ovens, etc, and you will need to take your fair share. So unless this is troop which has embraced ultra-light techniques and gear, you kid will most likely want to get a pack designed for mid-weight packing.

    Daypacks:  For very young children, Eagle Creek made a really great daypack, but it has been off the market for awhile.  There are countless day pack / book bags available for kids today. A florescent Barbie or shockingly bright Barney backpack might not blend into the back country, but there isn’t really a need to buy a special pack for hiking… use whatever backpack goes to and from school since they are already use to carrying that pack. In fact, kids might be happier with the bright color backpack, and you might as well since they are easier for you to see. I was very amused early on beause my daughter didn’t care about any of her gear other than it’s color. Originally she really liked “Red”.

    Backpacks: For smaller kids, there are only a few pack which have a torso short enough, a waist strap which can be tightened enough, and has enough volume for all their gear (need at least 1800ci).  For example, 1850ci has just enough room inside it for a North Face Tigger sleeping bag, a Big Agnes Insulated AirCore mummy sleeping pad, a 1L platypus, her clothing  for a three season trip, eating utensils, toiletry kit, flashlight, and her smallest cuddly. Even more volume would be required if the kids is fully self supporting or carrying their fair share of group gear and food. I realize that adult ultralight backpackers can easily get down below this volume, but most kids gear will be higher volume because items like kid size 800 fill down sleeping bags are not a good investment. Most kids will not be as careful as adults, and items have a limited lifetime because the children will grow. It makes sense to purchase less expensive items such as sleeping bags made using synthetic insulation.

    For young kids (say <11y) I would suggest checking out the following packs:

    • Any daypack/book bag: Use whatever backpack is used daily for school books. Fill the day pack with whatever will fit without being too heavy (I would recommend keeping their pack under 10 lbs). Carry the rest of their gear in your pack and have a great time.
    • MLD Prophet: (size XS). Rob used to make a size XS which was great! Seems like he only goes down to size S now which is for people 5’1″ or so. My daughter used one of the rare (and no longer made) MLD kids packs.
    • Deuter Fox 30 (torso 10-17″, 2lb 10oz, 1,850ci, $79): Very comfortable for most kids (though one girl who borrowed it didn’t like it). The torso length is easily adjustable with a pretty wide range as does the hip strap (goes down to 22″). Good size for kids who are carrying their own gear, but adults are carrying food and shared items. Very durable material. Two side pockets and top pocket provide some organizational features. Back pocket and side mesh pockets are close to useless. You can strap a pad on vertically running ties through the retaining straps for the top lid.
    • Kelty Junior Tioga (discontinued now, torso 9-14″, 3 lb 6 oz 2050ci): External frame pack for small kids.
    • Osprey Youth Series: A number of full featured packs that weight ~3-4lbs.
    • Tough Traveler: Makes a number of internal frame packs for kids. I have never seen these packs, but there have been a number of recommendations from people on discussion lists.
    • ULA-Equipment Kids Packs: Excellent packs
    • DIY: Make your own backpack.

    For average size children older than 11 years old  I would also consider any classic ultralight or light weight packs that have short torso models.

  • Backpacks

    Choosing a backpack can be tricky, especially for someone who is just starting out.  You need to know what you are carrying  to choose the right pack, but if you are just starting out you don’t know what you are going to be carrying.  I suggest start with trips you expect to take (duration & conditions), and what backpacking style you will use (ultra-light, light weight, hut2hut / hosteling, medium/heavy weight). I would encourage taking a light to ultralight approach

    [toc]

    Conventional wisdom is that people should carry a backpack that’s <25% of their body weight. This is reasonable for moderate distances but will be fatiguing on a longer hike. There were several experiments evaluating how pack weight impacted soldiers physical performance. A key finding was that on all day exercises, fit/trained soldiers had a measurable increase of fatigue and a drop in agility when they carries more than 10-12% of their lean body weight. This matches my personal experience: I feel no more tired at the end of a 20 miles carrying 17lb as compared to carrying no pack. My one caveat that when over 8 lbs I need to shift some weight to my hips or shoulder pain will be fatiguing through the day. My wife found her sweet spot is <7lb.

    What you are carrying effects how much volume you will need, and how substantial the suspension system needs to be. I typically tell people don’t get a pack that’s larger “just in case you need more room”, this will only encourage you to bring too much stuff, will be heavier, and  more ungainly.  If anything, you want a pack which is slightly smaller than you need.  It is likely that over time you will find the weight and volume of your gear will go down, and the slightly too small pack becomes just right.  In the mean time, use a stuff sack which you attach to the outside of your pack with straps or under the top lid to hold the items that don’t fit inside the pack.  As your food gets consumer, move the items into your pack.

    Beside the backpack being able to hold everything you need it to, the most important thing is to find the pack which is comfortable when holding the load you plan on carrying. The first issue is that the pack needs to fit you well. A great pack which is poorly fit can be more uncomfortable that a cheap pack which fits you. There is a nice video made by REI and ULA about adjusting backpack fit and and an article by hill people which will give you a good idea of what to look for. One caviet, if you are looking at packs without load lifters, or where the load lifted doesn’t attach to the frame, you want the shoulder strap anchors to be slight above the shoulder top rather than slightly below.

    Ideally, you should go to a outdoor outfitter that employs experienced backpackers or climbers who can help you get a good fit.  Note: many of the larger outdoor stores employee people who do not have significant experience backpacking and climbing.

    It’s best to try backpacks before purchasing. You should place weight in the pack to simulate the sort of load you expect to carry and give it a try.  For experienced packers, I would suggest bring all your gear in a duffel bag and try packs using your stuff rather than simulated weights.

    Check with local stores to find out if it is possible to rent the pack you like for a weekend or has a good return policy.  This could save you from buying a pack which seemed good in the showroom but isn’t comfortable after a hard day of use.

    I can’t stress enough how important getting a comfortable backpack can be.  Other than your footwear, no other piece of gear is as likely to ruin a fun trip than a backpack which isn’t comfortable.  My experience is that a well fitting backpack carries 20 lbs so well that I can actually forget that I am carrying a pack, and that I can carry 30 lbs for days without any shoulders or hip soreness or pain.  Do not scrimp on your pack.  Get a pack which is comfortable for you.

    If you are looking for a pack for european backpacking / trekking, where you are going from hut to hut, or hostel to hostel, you might want to look at my notes about packing light for travel. and my list of trekking packs. I also have a separate post about backpacks for kids.

    My Choice

    In 2025 I started using a Zpacks Arc Hauler 50l. I can comfortably carry a bear canister and a total pack weight of 22+lb and my size medium qualifies as a carry-on bag.

    Between 2000-2009 I put at least 150 miles on 15 different packs and tried a number of others as I searched for the perfect pack for me. These packs spanned the range from the 4 oz Gossamer Gear Whisper frameless through 6 lb external frame packs. During this time I experimented with SUL (base weight of ~5lb) but eventually settled into a base of 8-11 lb, carrying between 15-26lbs on most trips. I eventually settled on the Gossamer Gear Gorilla 40L backpack. My first Gorilla was purchased in 2009. I used the original for several years, and then in 2012 switched to the 2nd generation. I believe that the Gorilla currently being sold is the 6th generation… every version has been an improvement.

    Between 2022-2024 I used a Hanchor Tufa which is an ultralight pack with a foam pad which provides some torso stiffness. It’s carry-on friendly, and is as comfortable as most other pack I have used up to 17lbs, and adequately comfortable up to 22lbs. (A few notes from someone who says they are the designer).

    In 2025 I picked up a Durston Gear Wapta 30 give frameless packs one more try. I loved the pack and found it perfect for me with low weight, but when I carried more than 12lbs I would be sore after a hike of more than 6 miles. This isn’t a criticism of the Wapta, it’s actually one of the most comfortable ultralight packs I’ve used, I am just not built for frameless packs. The only frameless packs I’ve been able to comfortably carry my normal load (8lb base, 15-20lb total weight) had closed pad pockets: SMD StarLite and the Hanchor Tufa.

    If I had to purchase a new pack today, I would consider:

    • Zpacks Arc Hauler which is working well for me
    • KS Ultralight with external stays which could be broken down so it could quality as a personal sized item when flying,
    • SWD or Seek Outdoors flight 3 based on several people I trust strong recommendation for their ability to comfortably carry heavier loads.

    Internal -vs- External Frame Packs

    There has been a debate running since at least the 1970s as to whether internal or external frame packs are better.  I doubt this debate will ever end. My observations are as follows:

    Internal Frame Packs

    These days most people seem to use internal frame packs.  An internal frame pack uses foam, plastic, metal, and/or carbon fiber which is  located inside the pack to give the pack structure and effectively transfer weight to the hip strap.  Advantages are that internal frame packs tend to be easier to balance since they are closer to your body and are less likely to get snared on things if you are climbing or going cross country.  The downside is that your back doesn’t get much ventilation.

    External Frame Packs

    External frame packs typically have a ridged  metal or plastic frame which has shoulder and waist straps on one side to allow you to carry the pack, and some sort of bag on the other side to hold your stuff. These packs are good for hauling large amounts of gear.  They also tend to be better in hot weather because they can provide better ventilation for your back, provide lots of pockets to make organizing your gear easier, and allow you to secure gear against the frame to minimize shifting of your heavier gear.  External frame packs also tend to be more adjustable so they are good for people who are growing of as packs which get used by a number of people of variable size.

    Over the years I have had a number of external frame packs including the original Kelty Tioga and a JanSport D2, but I never managed to find one which was really comfortable for more than 10 miles.  On the other hand, there are many people who absolutely love their external frame pack.

    Don’t “upgrade” you old external frame pack if it is working well for you. I have met a number of people who were convinced to get rid of their external frame packs and get a “modern” internal frame pack only to find that they liked their old pack better and then were unable to find a comparable external frame pack on the market.  They ended up hunting on ebay for a pack just like the one they gave away a few months earlier.  Most external frame packs are quite heavy, but there are a few that are quite light.   Some people save weight by replacing the heavy fabric pack bag with light weight stuff sacks. This is described on Brawny’s The Packless Pack System webpage.

    Durability & Materials

    I have seen many people (including myself) obsess on pack durability. We have all heard about, or seen packs fail in the back country and we don’t want this to happen to us. All the catastrophic failures I have seem stem from poorly constructed packs made from mediocre materials. Often these packs came from big box discount stores. Most often, I have seen their seams rip out. For people doing trail hiking, a well constructed pack made from even light weight materials like sil-nylon will be sufficiently durable.  If your pack does run into something, it can typically be repaired with some tape (duct, gorilla, etc). I know several people who have thousands on miles on ultralight sil-nylon backpacks that weight less than 1lb. Light weight packs use mesh pockets which are fairly prone to damage. If you are concerned about long term durability, especially if you go off trail sometimes, I would recommend fabric pockets. Climbers and people who spend the majority of their time bushwacking are justified in concerns about durability. They face a lot more wear and tear than a trail hiker.

    If durability is your top issue, then 100% spectra is likely the way to go, but you pay a 2-3x premium for this. Most of the companies that make 100% spectra packs are oriented to climbers like McHale Packs and WildThings. Ultra 200 is becoming popular, but there have been reports of it delaminating. I am a fan on Dyneema, Robic, etc which mix of nylon and spectra threads which seem to provide a good durability : weight and seems to last for years. Finally there is the old standby Cordora, which tends to be heavier, but also cheaper than the other materials listed here. I recommend avoiding packs made from DCF. While light weight and strong, it’s expen$e and doesn’t stand up to abrasion/cuts. There was a nice post by Montmolar about lessons make fastpacks which drills into fabrics a bit.

    Frameless (Ultralight)

    I would not recommend novice to start out using an ultra-light style unless you are going some place with mild conditions.  There are skills which need to be developed to be safe and it takes some practice to figure out what you should take and what you can leave behind.

    Ultra-light packing is minimizing absolutely everything and relies on effective use of technique to keep you comfortable and safe.  Ultra-light backpacks are frameless rucksacks (think high volume book bag) made out of a light-weight fabric.  The philosophy is that if you aren’t carrying too much weight, you don’t need a frame or super heavy fabric… make the backpack as light as possible and save up to 5 lb as compared to heavy weight backpacks.

    Some people swear frameless backpacks are the most comfortable way to carry <30lb of weight. The general run of thumb is frameless packs are good up to 20lbs, +/-5lb given individual preferences. I personally think the number is more like 15lb +/-5lb. Dan Durston wrote “With a frameless pack I think about it like most people are okay with 10-15 lbs on their shoulders. 10 lbs is nice, 15 lbs should be okay. If you get to 20 lbs that pushing it”, and Ryan Jordan of BPL typically notes that frameless is good up to around 15lb.

    Ultra-light backpacks typically use the combination of a sleeping pad and tight packing to provide a suspension.  Most ultralight packs aren’t able to provide an effective suspension for more than 15lbs. For more information about how this works, check out  Frameless Backpacks Engineering Analysis which looks at how much the pack collapses as weight is added to it.

    Some useful resources

    There are several different approaches to hipbelt on ultralight packs. Many have none and just use shoulder traditional shoulder straps. Some using a “vest” rather than shoulder straps which keeps the pack more stable when you are moving and spreads the weight more than traditional straps. Some have thin webbing hip straps which don’t transfer weight but can help to stabilize the pad. A few ultralight packs have hipbelts which can actually transfer weight provide packing has been done in a way to resist compression.

    Ultralight packers tend to carry packs weighting 10-15 lbs and will likely be ~1800cu/in for weekend trips.  Week long without resupply you want a pack which has ~2600cu/in and can carry 20-25 lbs.  If you are in locations without good water supplies, you will need to carry significantly more weight and volume and should seriously consider a light weight pack. My experience is that ultra-light packs aren’t for everyone.

    For many years frameless packs didn’t make a lot of sense to me. Due to scoliosis I found that if I carry more than 8lbs on my shoulders I would experience pain after just 30 minutes and be really fatigued at the end of a day. Even with a SUL base weight, the combination of food and water would push me over 8lbs for quick weekend trips. My longer trips would often be 7-9 days which exceeded the comfortable of nearly all frameless packs, even those that shifted some of the weight to the hips. As a result I have been focus on packs with light frames discussed below. The most effective packs I have experienced transferring weight to my hips were the Durston Wapta 30, Hanchor Tufa, and the long discontinued Six Moon Designs Starlite.

    There are a number of companies which make high quality ultra light packs. I am generally not going to list any specific models, because most of the frameless packs I have experience will are no longer made and there are a number of new companies. Noteworthy / commonly recommended ultralight packs. Keep in mind that the built to order packs often have a 8-16 week lead time and often are not returnable.

    • Atom Packs (UK): Built to order (semi-custom), multiple size with light frame and belts which can be optionally added.
    • Dandee Packs: custom made: select shoulder straps, materials, torso length, volume, accessories.
    • Durston Gear Wapta: a very well designed ultralight pack using innovative materials and construction. I have found this pack to be more comfortable to carry than any frameless pack I have tried except the long discontinued StarLite pack made by SMD.
    • Gossamer Gear: One of the earliest companies making ultralight gear. Good range of products, several of which can be configured with frames. Factory made and easily ordered. Typically very good performance / cost ratio.
    • Granite Gear: Virga 2 not lightest but durable, reasonably priced and I found it more comfortable than most of the frameless packs I tried in 2010.
    • KS Ultralight Gear: Built to order (semi-custom) with many options. Have a couple of light frame options and an effective hip belt.
    • LifeAF Packs: Built to order (semi-custom)
    • MountainSmith Scream and Zerk: Mass produced (no waiting). Harness style shoulder straps
    • MLD: one of the grandfathers of ultralight packs
    • Palante: Handmade frameless packs with minimal customization
    • Nashville Cutaway Pack: Built to order (semi-custom) with harness style attachment
    • Six Moon Designs: One of the early makers of ultralight packs that can be configured a number of ways. Factory made and easily ordered. Many people love their packs. The discontinued StarLight pack was the most comfortable ultralight packs I used. The last pack I tried didn’t work for me, but I am not sure why.
    • SWD: Built to order (semi-custom)
    • Japanese companies
    • Zimmerbuilt: custom made backpacks

    It’s worth noting that several of the light weight style backpacks have removal stays, and can be configured as frameless, ultralight packs.

    Light Weight Style

    Light weight packers carefully select light weight gear, and don’t take a lot of luxury items… the luxury is carrying a light pack that isn’t fatiguing.  I would recommend anyone starting out to follow a light weight style.  As a light weight packer you optimizes for carry comfort like an ultra-light packer, but you bring a little extra gear to give larger safety margins and more comfort in camp. Weekend pack should carry 15-25 lbs and have ~2600cu/in.  Week long trips without resupply you want a pack which has ~3600cu/in and can carry 25-40 lbs.  Light weight packs are also great for people who are otherwise ultra-light packers who want to have a bit more carry comfort or need to carry a fair amount of food or water in addition to their ultra-light gear (this is me). Light-weight packs typically weight between 1.5-3 lbs.  While somewhat dated, I concur with much of what Ryan wrote in his position paper about Heavy Loads in Light Packs. Packs I would recommend looking at:

    • Decathlon 50l mt900-UL: Haven’t see it, but specs look pretty good. Some ventilation, 50l, less than 2lbs, reasonable frame.
    • Durston Kakwa 40: A good price for a really well designed pack. Shoulder straps are great (big improvement over the DD40). Excellent material and workmanship. Nice design. I found the hipbelt on my Gorilla more comfortable, but many seem to love it. Well worth considering. The pack is 23″ long, some airlines limit carry-on to 22″. Also available in 55L.
    • Elemental Horizons: No personal experience. I have seen a number of reviews such as the search for the perfect pack which leads me to believe it would be worth giving a try.
    • Hyper Mountain Gear: Some people love their packs, but I also see a lot of people who start with this pack who later switch to something more comfortable. I tried the SW2400 for a couple of days. I found it less comfortable than my Gorilla for weights 19-24lb.
    • Gossamer Gear Gorilla: $215, 29oz, 2800ci pack. The pack can be used like a typical frameless pack, but was designed to use the combination of a foam sleep or sit pad attached to the outside of the pack in combination with a removable U shaped aluminum double stay. The stay is easily reshaped for a custom fit which could be an issue with heavier loads, but I didn’t have any problems with the stay deforming with <25lb loads. Old versions of the Gorilla didn’t have the frame seated into the hip strap system which ultimately limits it’s weight carrying capacity. The current version addressed this. The Gorilla has a removable wrap around waist strap and extra wide shoulder straps which I have found quite comfortable. The material is more durable than the typical sil-nylon ultralight pack. The side pockets are easy to reach while wearing the pack with a large mesh pocket on the back of the pack. I found with loads less than 25lb this is one of the more comfortable pack I have used. If you need more volume, there is the Mariposa.
    • Granite Gear makes well designed light weight packs. I am fond of the Crown2 38L which I found to be slightly larger than my GG Gorilla 40L though it weights around 8 ounces more. Overall carry comfort was good, but I was surprised to find the Gorilla hipbelt to be a bit more comfortable. For many years I used the now discounted Granite Gear Vapor Trail which I found more comfortable that the Gorilla for loads up to 25lb. GG Crown2 is one of the best values, especially if you pick up one the the drop.com versions.
    • McHale Packs custom makes some of the best packs. The only packs I hear people rave about in the same way are Seek Outdoors when people are carrying heavy loads, and SWD.
    • NeoTrekk StackPack is an external frame back which uses a number of “barrel” bags to hold your gear. Used to be known as LuxuryLite. Didn’t work for me, but I have yet to find an external frame pack that I have liked using.
    • Osprey Exos/Eja, Levity/Lumina are light weight packs with a mesh back panel for better ventilation. Light weight given their features. I found the first version of the hip belt was not comfortable. The current generation (on the Levity) was good up to around 22lbs at which point I found it to be uncomfortable. A downside for me is that the smaller packs don’t fit a full size bear canister, and the larger models are just too big for me.
    • Outdoor Vitals CS40: Looks promising. 25oz, carbon fiber stays with load lifter
    • Seek Outdoors Flight Series: Light weight but reported by a number of people I trust to be one of the most comfortable packs, especially in the 30-50lb range.
    • Six Moon Designs Swift X: On paper looks like a great pack with all the features I would want. My experience with the super wide shoulder straps on the Gossamer Gear Gorilla and a brief test trail running using the harness on the Six Moon Designs Flight pack years ago made me think this could be a worthy update to my Gorilla. Alas, I just couldn’t get it adjusted to provide me with a comfortable fit.
    • ULA-Equipment: Makes a range of light weight of packs which have been popular with thru-hikers and light weight enthusiasts looking for long lasting packs. There website explains what volume and weight carrying capabilities each of their packs has. Mostly mail order, there are several stores such as Downworks in Santa Cruz which carry them.
    • SWD: No personal experience, but loved by a number of friends.
    • ZPacks Arc line of packs is a modern take on external frame packs. Milyiple yordo sizes with micro adjustment with the specified range. Amazingly light for a pack with a frame and comfortably carries to 25lb. Sometimes reported to have durability and squeaking issues.

    Several the the semi-custom ultralight pack makers do a version of their pack with some sort of frame and a hip belt which is capable of load transfer.

    Mid-weight Style

    Mid-weight packers are the most common / main-stream.  You select standard backpacking equipment and take enough gear to feel that you will be safe in comfortable in a wide range of conditions.  Weekend pack should carry 30-40 lbs and have ~3500 cu/in worth of space.  Week long trips without resupply means that you want a pack which carries holds 40-50 lbs and ~4800cu/in.  Mid-weight packs tend to be 3-5lbs.  Boy Scouts tend to have a mid-weight approach.

    Mid-weight style packers can use light-weight style packs for shorter trips, but if you are going for a week+ a larger and more structurally sound pack should be used.  For 40lb+ plus loads I have tried packs by Granite Gear, Seek Outdoors, Gregory, Osprey and ArcTeryx. I have liked most of the Osprey packs I have tried, Gregory where generally ok, and there is something about most of the ArcTeryx that just doesn’t work for me, though many people see to love them. I know a number of people who really like the external frame packs made by JanSport and Kelty (they also made a number of internal frame packs… none of which stand out as particulary remarkable). I have not looked at this class of pack in great detail in a number of years, though I have tried several packs recently.

    Heavy-weight

    Heavy weight style is when you bring whatever you are going an for an extended period of time without resupply or foraging, or if you are looking for maximum comfort for the camping or activity part of the trip (at the expense of the hiking being comfortable).  Serious camera gear, comfy camp chairs, lots of climbing gear for an extremely technical assault, wine in glass bottles, etc.  For a heavy weight, weekend pack should be able to carry 40-50 lbs and has ~5000cu/in.  Week long without resupply you want a pack which has at least 7000cu/in and can carry 70-80 lbs.  Heavy weight packs often weight more than 6lbs!

    I know a number of people who carry very heavy load who swear by Seek Outside, McHale Packs,  Kuiu (especially Pro Suspension + dry bag),  Dana Design Packs, and Mystery Ranch packs, but I have no personal experience carrying huge weights in any of these packs.  I used to carry these sorts of weights in external frame packs.  I am glad I don’t do this anymore.

    What I Look for In a Backpack

    There is no right or wrong preferences when it comes to selecting a backpack. You will likely prioritize and value things differently than I. I am particuarly sensitive (and difficult to fit properly) because I have a moderately severe case of scoliosis. Here is what I want in a pack (in rough priority order):in a pack, so my recommendations might point you in the wrong direction. Here is what I want in a pack (in my priority order):

    • Appropriate Volume: Overnight I am typically carrying around 2000ci.  Week long three season trips with bear canister I am carrying 2600ci.  Snow trips (which are pretty rare these days) normally run 2800-3200ci. A perfect pack would handle this range of volumes well.
    • Light-weight Frame: I use an air mattress as my sleeping pad, and I normally carry loads which are more than 16lb, but typically less than 25lb, always less than 35lbs. I have found that with this weight, and without the stiffness of a closed cell foam mat, that I need sometime the provides structure in the pack, be it stays or a plastic frame sheet.
    • Curving Back: I have found that I like a pack which “leans” into me. I believe that my thoracic curvature is a bit more aggressive than some people and I have scoliosis. I want a solid connection at my waist, and I want the pack to curve gently to my shoulders.  I have found that packs that are too strait bounce too much or feel like they are pulling away from my body.
    • Well padded, encircling, grippy waist straps. Wing hip belts typically don’t work well for me. My hips aren;t very pronounced which means I am tempted to over tighten the hipbelt to keep it from sliding down. Hipebelts with double buckets which can be independently adjust are often better. 
    • Minimal or no lumbar pad: I seem to have much less sacral and lumbar curvature than some people. As a result most lumbar pads feel like they dig into my back. Because of this, I typically carry my packs slightly lower around my hips than what is considered “correct”.  I have found that when I carry a pack in the “correct” location, I either have to tighten down too much on the waist strap, put more weight on my shoulders which I don’t like, or need to periodically reposition the pack as it slowly inches down my back until it hit the widest section of my hips.
    • Grippy back material: I like the pack to stay fixed on my back. I have found that if the material against my back is somewhat grippy that the pack stays put better. The opposite of this are packs that put sil-nylon against my back. Particularly good have been the the rubberized mesh of the VauDe Seina 45 and the slightly textured foam on the Granite Gear Vapor Trail, and the mesh over foam of the GG Gorilla pack.
    • Load Lifter: With the pack leaning into me I like being able to pull on load lifts to take even more pressure off the tops of my shoulders. Actually, load lifters aren’t an absolute requirement, but the shoulder strap top anchors need to be slightly above the top of my shoulders.
    • Pocket which is reachable while walking: I want a place to store snacks which can be easily reached while wearing the backpack. This could be side pockets which aren’t too tall, maybe even angled forward like the Ospret Aether 60. I have recently discovered I like small pockets on my shoulder straps. I typically don’t like or pockets on the hip belts because when I take my pack off these pockets end up in the dirt.
    • Appropriately Durable Materials:  These days I most hike trails or am in fairly open terrain when going cross country. For me is 210 Denier uncoated nylon (or Sil-Nylon) with Dyneema (UHMWPE) ripstop for trail hiking and light bushwacking. Serious off trail / climbing I would want 100% spectra. My experience is that laminated materials is that delaminate after a hard year of use, say a few thousand miles. PU coated nylon ends up becoming a nasty mess in a few years due to hydrolysis. I am intrigued by the 100D Nylon PC that Hachor is using but not experience with it.
    • Hydration Tube Access: Some convenient way to get a hydration hose a out of the pack, but I don’t require a hydration sleeve.
    • Narrow enough that the pack doesn’t stick out much beyond the sides of my body.  Short enough that I can wear a wide brim hat without the hat rubbing against the pack.
    • Back ventilation:  I loved my VauDe Siena Biking Daypack. The mesh allows my back to breath.  Alas, I have yet to find a pack that has this feature which carries 25lb comfortably and also has enough room for my bear canister while not being too big.

    Other Random Things

    For amusement, you might want to take a look at tje lightningpacks which generates electricity as you hike. One issue that people are divided on is the optimal placement of a hip strap.

  • Survival Skills

    Remember the 3s

    You need air in 3 minutes (and to stop severe bleeding), to get warmth in 3 hours, water in 3 days, and food in 3 weeks.  The Wisdom of Abo Dude touches on most of the survival principles I learned growing up. Cody also has a book called 98.6: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive! which covers similar material but is greatly expanded. I have heard an interview with the author of Meateaters Guide to Wilderness Skills and Survival which makes me believe it would be a good book. Check out General Backcountry Safety  by the Mountain Rescue Association. AirCav hosts a good  Survival Manual.

    [toc]

    Common Sense

    Before you leave on a trip make sure that someone responsible knows where you are going (ideally your detailed route) and when you should be back. Make sure they know you are counting on them to call for a search and rescue if you don’t contact them within a specified time period.

    If something goes wrong don’t react without thinking. Except in the case of the 3 minute threats, you are most likely going to get a better outcome by pausing, and reflecting on all your options. In most cases, staying put makes it easier for rescuers to find you.

    First Aid

    You should be well versed in basic first aid. Carrying a first aid kit isn’t as important as knowing what to do. With knowledge you can typically improvise. The with advent of modern signaling technology, the emphasis has shifted from treatment of serious issues in the field to stabilizing, with the treatment provided once the victim has been evacuated.

    Signaling

    From a pure safety perspective, it is always best to travel with two other people.  That way, if one person is hurt, someone can say with them, and another can go for help. No mater how many people you are traveling with, bring a whistle like the Fox 40.  The sound carries a lot further than your voice and it is a lot easier on your vocal cords. Three short blasts is the US standard for distress, 6 long blasts is the international signal for distress.

    You should know how to sustain a signal fire and carry (and know how to use) a signal mirror. It also wouldn’t hurt to know the standard ground signals which can be made from tarps or items on the ground.

    You should not expect cell coverage in the backcountry.  If you are traveling alone, especially in an area which doesn’t get a lot of traffic, you might want to consider bring some sort of hi-tech signaling device.  Andrew Skurka’s Satellite Communication is a good summary.  There are even more details in the BPL 2-way satellite_communications State of the Market. I would note

    • PLBs are the most reliable signaling method though they are limited to saying “I am in trouble at my current location”. From what I have read PLBs will always work. They were designed for downed aircraft and lost ships.
    • Signaling devices that rely on the Iridium network like Garmin inReach (what I carry) are fairly reliable, but there are conditions which will prevent delivery of your message(s). There have been times when after 30 minutes my message did not successfully deliver, most likely because either canyon walls or extreme tree cover blocked the signal. I moved to a more exposed location and the InReach device successfully delivered the message within 10-20 minutes.
    • Signaling devices that use GlobalStar designed for back-country signaling work provided you have a wide & clear view of the sky. Desert, alpine, or trips on plains GlobalStar is nearly flawless. Canyons, places with heavy tree cover, etc your messages might not be delivered. Devices using Iridium are more reliable.
    • Modern Phones with Satellite support: Apple iPhone 14 and later can send SOS messages via GlobalStar. T-mobile was enabled using StarLink. Most phones are not as rugged as the dedicated devices and require the user to angle the device to be pointing in the correct direction and wait for the satellite to be “visible” which people who are “in trouble” might not be up to doing.

    Many years ago I used to carry an CW (morse code) Amateur QRP rig because of it’s low power requirements. Typically 20 meters was good during the daytime, 30+ meters is good at night.  I would research what frequencies/times had particularly active nets in the area I was traveling.

    Starting Fire

    Knowing how to build and maintain a fire is one of the most important skills you can learn.  Fire can provide warmth, provide a means to make water safe to drink, makes food more palatable, and can be an effective signal device.

    I recommend bringing at least two devices which lets you start a fire. At least one of them should work even when wet such as fire-steel, Spark-Lite, or UST Blast Match and at least one should be usable with a single hand incase you are injured. I also typically bring a number of “windproof / waterproof” matches which are neither, but light in most conditions and can also function as a first stage fire starter.   I commonly start my fires with a  cheap BIC lighter. Old fashion Zippo lighters while not the lightest option tend to be very reliable provided you refill them. My experience is that the “high end” lighters are not the most reliable. The electric spark can will fail to ignite the gas… especially when over 8k feet.

    I recommend bring a few firestarters. A number of items you carry for other purposes can be turned into fire starters. Cotton balls + vaseline, alcohol based hand gels, fuel for your stove, etc. Most firestarters use a combination of cotton or wood base which has been embedded with with a petroleum, natural oil, or wax fuel. 

    You should also learn techniques for starting a fire without pre-make firestarters and when the easy to pick up tinder is wet. Note: having a knife that is larger than the Swiss Army “Classic” makes this a lot easier. A more complete write up is an equipped.com  firestarters page.

    Avoiding Fires

    In the West fires are increasingly posing a danger to people on extended treks. Satellite devices that can receive text messages such as the Garmin In-Reach be used to interact with trailinfo.org as discussed in a thread about receive info about possible fire dangers and the awareoutdoors.com service which provides fire, weather, snow depth, and other localized information.

    Warmth & Dry

    If you have a shelter (tent, tarp, etc) set it up to provide a dry location where you can warm up. When you aren’t carrying a shelter and a sleeping bag in a waterproof bag carry an emergency blanket and fire starters for warmth and know how to use them. Just keep in mind that space blankets are not a substitute for appropriate insulation and read space blanket buyer’s beware. The SOL brand significantly better than many of the “generic” emergency blankets. The pricy Lifesystems Blizzard Survival Blanket or Bivy are a double layered emergency system not only reflect but have a small air pocket for enhanced insulation… making them significantly warmer (but also more bulky) than traditional emergency blankets.

    Exposure is the number one killer in the backcountry. Read material by Murray Hamlet about staying warm.  You should understand wind chill and know that you lose heat 25 times faster when you are in the water as when you are in still air (e.g. don’t get soaked, if you are soaked, get dry).  It is possible to get hypothermia in 50F weather if you are wet and the wind is blowing strongly.  There was a good article about avoiding and treating hypothermia.

    For some other thoughts see my staying warm page.

    Water

    Water is life. Don’t get dehydrated and make sure you are drinking clean water.  Always carry an adequate water supply with tools to get more water. I list possible water treatments elsewhere. My typical water use while backpacking or hiking is 1L for every 7-8 miles when it’s 30-60F, around 1L for every 5 miles when it’s 60-80F, and 1L for every <=3 miles when it’s more than 80F. The best place to take water is from the top 1/2 inch of a lake. Constant exposure to UV light from the sun tends to purify the top layer of a of a lake provided it’s not stagnate

    Food

    Except in rare cases, you won’t need to forage for food unless you are seriously off the beaten path, nor do you need to take a lot of extra food. A “normal” healthy person with average levels of body fat can go for over four weeks without food with no long-term negative consequences (assume low activity). So for most people there is not threat to starving to death if you are without food for a few days. The primary risk issue is that it’s slower for the body to convert you fat tissue to fuel… so you are more likely to get fatigued. This means that your physical performance will be down, you might not be as mentally sharp which can lead to mistakes, and it will be harder to stay warm.  Focus on other skills unless you are highly motivated to learn to forage.

    Weather

    Being able to anticipate and understand likely weather and environmental conditions can help to be prepared. To be added… what to observe to anticipate weather. NOAA Weather Radio. There is a free / reasonable effort service called wx2inreach which sents reports to an inReach device.

    You should be able to find your way. If you are using maps and GPS on your phone, be sure you have some sort of backup. Either physical map + compass (that you know how to use) or a second device since as a GPS watch with maps or Garmin InReach. Sgt Rock has a good intro to using map and compass.

  • Outdoor Gear

    My recommendations on the following pages originated with backpacking, but most of the observations are applicable to a variety of outdoor activities.  Related: Packing for the Camino (or other other hostel-2-hostel pilgramages) plus notes about packing light for travel. I also keep a list of my “gear for life“. I have pages covering:

    Ultralight Approach

    Around 2000 I read Mark Twight’s Extreme Alpinism and came across materials by Ray Jardine and realized that I didn’t have to pack like a Boy Scout. I joined the backpackinglight Yahoo! mailing list that was moderated by Don Ladigin who later wrote the marvelous book Lightening Up… and started on a journey to drop my pack weight. I benefitted greatly from correspondence with Glen Van Peski, Ryan Jordan and the BPL community. While I don’t always go as light as some of these folks, I have found that my approach (3 season gear list) keeps me as safe and comfortable as my heavy-weight friends in camp, and is significantly more comfortable when I am moving.

    Historically “ultralight backpacking” was defined as <10lbs base weight. I don’t think this is a particularly useful definition these days. First, if you have enough money, it’s possible to purchase gear that gets you to an ultralight base weight (<10lb), even though you are approaching an activity like a classic “heavy-weight” practitioner carrying many items which aren’t actually needed. Second, conditions and trip duration might require more weight given the conditions that will be faced / the duration between resupply. The main reason I am not fond of using merely the a weight to define an ultralight approach is that it misses the spirit of ultralight:

    The key to ultralight is to use your head… having enough experience to know how to deal with various situations, and to carefully think about what is needed (or more likely not needed).

    An effective ultralight approach uses experience and skills to develop a system of gear and practices which allow you to face a wide variety of circumstances with less gear than most people. In its optimal form you are carrying and simpler, smaller, lighter load and camp life has a number of simple rhythms allowing you to focus on your experience.

    Warning… don’t let your quest for the right gear to lead to gearaholism. I have notes about keeping costs down.

    Other People’s Recommendations

    I am not following outdoor gear as closely as I used to. As a result, some of my recommendations might become dated. There are several sites that I use when I want to see a list of current products that are likely to have category leading performance:

    • Ryan Jordan’s personal selection deep experience, thoughtful analysis, engineers / scientists approach. I rarely disagree with Ryan’s recommendations. If I need to purchase something my first stop is to see what Ryan is using these days
    • Adventure Alan does a good job covering ultralight equipment. I  appreciated Alan’s articles in the early days of backpackinglight.com.
    • Frank Revelo has a pragmatic, moderate cost, often DIY approach to gear which is refreshing
    • Cleverhiker Most aware of current market than me, and seems to come pretty close to my personal taste in equipment. While I don’t stack rank items exactly the same as they do, I never find myself saying “Why did they include XYZ in their listing?”
    • Greenbelly Backpacking Guide has a recommended gear section (need to scroll down) which I find is very readable. I tend to agree with Cleverhiker in actual picks, but Greenbelly’s pages are often more complete. 
    • Outdoor Gearlab covers a wide variety of gear types, but I never agree with their stack ranking. Sometimes items are in their list which I find myself saying “Really? You liked it?”. Most of the time items I think are the best appear in their lists, just not top rated by them. Fail to include the smaller, class leading cottage companies. I often wonder are they a shill for big name outdoor gear companies, but people who know them say they are not in the pockets of the big gear manufacturers.
    • Gear Junkie for outdoor industry news and reviews.
    • roadtrailrun.com – running focus
    • dcrainmaker site for any gear which is related to triathlons, especially technology / instruments. I no longer will purchase any technology for these sports if Ray hasn’t given it a positive review. If he hasn’t reviewed it, it’s like junk.

    Additional Notes

    Other information you might find useful include:

    My Notes

    Surveys

    History

    Buying Stuff

    Manufacturers

    Stores

    The following stores have a good online presence and typically a lot of physical stores as well

    • REI: A goto retailer in the US. I remember when they had a store in Seattle, and were mostly mail order. They have stores may place. Cover a wide range of products and a good return policy (used to be amazing but people abused it). Mostly main stream manufacturers, so don’t typically have the very best in class products. There in-house brand used to be “ok” and now seems pretty good.
    • Decathlon: Different website in every country, and physical stores across the world (but a poor presence in US). I think of them as the Ikea of outdoor gear. Decent gear that is inexpensive. There best items are never class leading in materials, design, or manufacture quality. The lower end tends to be made with lower quality materials and manufacturing than typical main stream products. On the other hand their products tend to be very good values because they tend to be significantly cheaper.
    • MEI: Canadian, similar to REI

    The following are amazing stores which have a great selection of gear.

    • no/W: Taipei, TW. Really great curation… I could re-buy most of my current kit at the store. Has nearly all Gossamer Gear products (several not sold in the US), Durston Gear, Cumulus, Rab, Montbell products, minimalist sandals, XoSkin toe socks, Trail Designs stove, and NiteCore headlamps / USB battery packs.
    • Garage Grown Gear: Saint Paul, MN: Mostly online, but you can schedule a visit. Stock a lot of cottage gear products.
    • Hiker’s Depot, Tokyo, JP. Great selection of mainstream in cottage gear. Knowledgeable proprietor.
    • Pod 7 kilo, Prague, CZ. Well curated collect of ultralight gear including some cottage manufacturers.
    • samplus: Taipei, TW. A number of cottage gear: SMD, HMG, Enlightened Gear, Yamatomichi, and several other companies from US, Japan, and TW.
    • BackpackingLight: UK. Great selection of a wide range of gear. Have to schedule a visit
    • Mountain Shop: Portland, OR. Gossamer Gear, Six Moon Designs, Rab, Montbell, and a number of others. Have gear for backpacking, skiing, and climbing.
    • Outdoor Gear Retailers (dated): sf bay area, select locations, web

    Useful References / Tidbits

  • Getting a Good Night Sleep in the Outdoors

    Many people under estimate the value of a good night of sleep. If you don’t cherish your sleep, you might want to read The Problem of Sleep which does a good job of documenting the value of sleep, what interferes with good sleep, and what the negative consequences of not getting enough sleep.

    There is some gear which will help you get a good night of sleep:

    Psychological Comfort and Safety

    People have a variety of reactions to sleeping outdoors. On one extreme are the people find watching the night sky and hearing the sounds of nature around them extremely relaxing. For them, nothing is better that sleeping under the stars “cowboy style”: a ground cloth, a pad, and a sleeping bag, quilt, or blanket. At the other extreme are people people that have trouble falling asleep unless the are in some sort of shelter which keeps the “wild” at bay and provides a sense of “civilization”. There is no “right” answer. It’s important for people to figure they are comfortable with and use that as a starting place. Most people find that it is possible to expand their “comfort zone” with a bit of planning and practice. I encourage people to select their Outdoor Shelter based on what will given them adequate psychological comfort. Otherwise they will spend the night worrying rather than sleeping. In particular they need to figure out how much “protection” they need for a “peace of mind”

    Exposure to the Elements

    For someone who has spent the majority of their life in cities, the thought of being exposed to the elements can be a bit scary. Common concerns seem to revolved around whether the shelter will keep the environment conditions at bay, and if the shelter will remain standing through out the night. My experience is that people worry too much about this. Expect in the most extreme conditions, or when using micro size poncho tarps, it’s not that hard to stay dry and protected, even when sleeping under a moderate size tarp. Many people feel compelled to get a “bathtub” floor because they are concerned that just a ground cloth might not keep them dry. This is rarely a problem if a bit of care is taken when selecting a site.

    If you have read my other outdoor web pages, you most likely know that I generally favor light weight, if not ultralight gear. But I have to make a confession. It took me a couple of years before I was really confident enough in my abilities and the performance of my gear to sleep through the night when facing a storm. Part of this most likely is because some of the first storms I weathered ended up pulling up my stakes and exposing me to the weather. If I had slept through these events I might have gotten soaks rather than slightly damp. It was a good thing during those early misadventures that I couldn’t sleep well. These days though, I have enough confidence, that I can go right to sleep, actually enjoying the sounds of a raging storm, feeling snug, comfortable, and confident that I will stay that way under my tarp, even while the weather is raging “outside”.

    I recommend double walled tents, with the inner tent being largely made from fabric rather than mesh for people who really worry about environment conditions.

    Flying Insects

    Nearly everywhere in the world has flying, biting, bugs. Some places the bugs are merely an annoyance, but in many locations these buggers are a real health threat. People who worry a lot about flying insects, or are in locations where the is a significant risk of disease should use a shelter which is fully sealed, and provides enough distance from vulnerable sections of the shelter (such as the mesh) and where the user will be. In locations where the insects are merely annoying, I have found that my sleeping quilt keeps the bugs off my lower body, and either a headnet, or a A16 bug bivy can provide adequate protection for me to get a good night sleep. When there are a lot of flying insects, especially in warm conditions, I like more space that is bug free so I can feel a breeze and be free to move around.

    Crawling Critters

    Many people worry about what might crawl over them while they are asleep. They are bothered by the thought that harmless insects like the common black ant might crawl over there face. For people who are hyper-worried about such things, I would recommend that they sleep in a fully enclosed space of some kind.

    In most of the North America there is little danger of getting hurt by crawling critters in the middle of the night. I would encourage people to get over their fears. I am sure many people have heard stories of snakes crawling into someone sleeping bag to stay warm, but you are MUCH more likely to have lighting strike you than have this happen, even if you place your sleeping bag right next to a snake’s home. There is a small risk of getting stung or bitten by crawling insects such as spiders or scorpions, but they tend not to bother sleeping people. There is more of a risk getting stung when you clean out your garage. There are some locations in Australia, Asia, and Africa where concerns are justified and it would be be foolish to sleep within some protective system, but this is the exception, not the rule.

    Large Animals

    In the continental USA there is little risk of being disturbed by large animals unless you are sleeping with good smelling food in bear country. In grizzly country it may be safer to sleep within an enclosed shelter: a tent or shaped tarp. Not because the shelter will keep the bear out, but there is some data that bears seem less likely to bother people inside shelters that the bears can’t see into.

    Other Humans

    Man is the most dangerous creature. Some people are very concerned that “someone might get them”. If you really want a steel door with a couple of deadbolts to keep people out, the outdoors might not be the best place to sleep. I don’t have statistics, but my personal experience is that the percent of “nice” people I have run into backpacking, climbing, back country skiing, etc is higher than in the city. I think people are most likely safer in the back country than in the typical city.

    A Good Foundation

    There are a wide variety of mattresses sold because people’s tastes and needs varied widely when it comes to what is a comfortable foundation to sleep on. There is no “right” answer. There are a wide variety sleeping pads or sleeping systems which can be considered. My best suggest is to head to a good outdoors store, and lay down on the various choices for 15-20 minutes and figure out what works for you.

    The Right Temperature to Sleep

    When the conditions are either hot or cold, it is often a challenge to get comfortable enough to get a good night sleep.  In warm conditions using a hammock or a cot can be helpful. A more common struggle people face is getting warm enough to sleep when it’s cold outside. I encourage people to systematically figure out what is comfortable for them. The two best tools for this is a thermometer (ideally one that logs changes) and a small note pad. Each time you sleep out, record what gear you were using, what the weather conditions were, and how comfortable you were. Over time this will be key to you being able to plan effectively. I have a discussion of sleeping bags and quilts which will be integrated into this document later.

    Before you go to bed:

    1. Keep active until you are ready to go to bed. For example, continue hiking until you are read to go to bed… but not so much that you are sweating. You body’s metabolism will be running high from your work making it easy to stay warm for the early part of the night.
       
    2. Fluff up your bag to maximum loft. If you have a down bag with continuous baffles, remember to shift the majority of the down to the top of your bag where it will do the most good. As soon as my shelter is up, I take out my down quilt so it has maximum time to recover it’s loft.
       
    3. Make sure you had plenty of food and water before you go to bed. The primary source of warmth when you are sleeping is your metabolism. This system needs water to function well, and you need enough fuel. In cold weather make sure you eat enough slow burning fats to carry you through the night.  That means things like nuts rather than cab heavy food just before bed.
       
    4. Relieve yourself. A bit less mass for your body to keep warm, and lessens the likelihood that you will have to get up in the middle of the night.
       
    5. Make sure you are warm before you get into your sleeping bag. If you are chilled, engaging in activities that are enough to get you warm, but not so much that you start to sweat.
       
    6. Make sure important things don’t freeze.  If you are sleeping in below freezing temperatures, you should make sure that things you will need will not be frozen in the morning. This includes some water, fuel for your stove, and your shoes. In milder conditions, putting these items under your legs is often sufficient, but in colder condition it is best to bring them inside your sleeping bag. I will bring a drysack for my shoes so they don’t get me and my bag dirty when I sleep with them. You might think this is silly, but trying to get your feet into shoes that have frozen solid is no fun.
       

    Have the gear to keep you warm:

    1. Make sure you bring enough insulation. Yeah, this sounds obvious, but I have seen people bring the same sleeping bags that didn’t keep them adequately warm on previous trips.
       
    2. Make sure your sleeping pad is warm enough, or bring a second pad. Many commonly used pads will only keep the user warm down to 30-50F. Below those temperatures, the pad will let enough cold through that it will be hard for most people to feel truly comfortable. If you can tell the ground is cold by lying down on your pad, then the pad isn’t sufficiently insulated for the conditions you are in.

    Make Good Use of Your Clothing:

    1. Use your clothing. Insulation does not have to be the sleeping bag or quilt. You can use your clothing to boast the comfort range of your sleeping bag. Just make sure they aren’t damp by the time you go to sleep or they will chill rather than warm you.
       
    2. Wear warm headwear: a  hat and maybe a neck gaiter. Even with a good sleeping bag hood, people will often lose heat through their head.  Remember that you can layer headwear, the same way you layer over the rest of your body. In colder weather I will wear both a “base” / fleece hat, and a down balaclava.
       
    3. For many people, keeping hands and feet warm will make a significant difference is how warm they feel. There are a variety of ways to help this. You can use gloves, mittens, or dry socks to help keep hands warm. I recommend minimally dry sock for sleep. Down or Primaloft slippers or socks can be a big help. In very cold weather I recommend vapor barrier socks which then has booties or heavy wool socks over them.
       
    4. As it gets cold, you end up using a lot of energy heating and humidifying the air you breath in. [At 0F most people burn 50% of the base metabolism on this.] Cover your mouth with a scarf, one of the 3M warming masks, or one of the high tech face masks to help pre-heat the air you breath in.
       
    5. If your warm enough when going to bed, but might need a warmth boast in the early morning when the temperature often bottoms out and your fuel is running low, use your warm clothing as a pillow. This way it’s easy to find and use them in the morning, and they are already somewhat heated up.

    Use Items to Supplement Your Bag and Clothing:

    1. Use an over-bag. If you sleeping bag isn’t warm enough, consider being a second bag which you layer over your normal bag.
       
    2. Use a sleeping bag liner. While many liner over-rate there added warmth, they can help warm you by providing a bit of additional insulation, and filling dead space which is prone to a bit of convention cooling. In general, I think using clothing is a more versatile solution.
       
    3. If using a quilt, add a bivy. I generally recommend those with waterproof bottoms, and breathable tops. This will cut down drafts, and trap some air which will boast the warmth of your quilt.
       
    4. In colder weather (<10F), use a vapor barrier (clothing or liner) to minimize perspiration and protect your bags insulation.
       
    5. Use an appropriate shelter. Having a shelter that blocks wind will help keep your warm. Some double walled shelters trap air sufficiently that it can provide some insulation. Consider sleeping in a snow cave or igloo… the snow can actually work like an insulator, making the inside significantly warmer than the outside. In hot weather use a shelter that lets cool air flow.

    Other Useful Techniques:

    1. Select your campsite so it’s not in a wet area, hard-packed ground, rock, or ice. These environments conduct heat more quickly that softer bed of sand, grasses, pine needles, or snow.
       
    2. If you do get cold, do something about it. Isometric exercises can be performed with minimal movement (so you don’t create drafts) and can generate quite a bit of heat.
       
    3. Fill your water bottle with boiling water. Cover the water bottle with one of your socks, and place the water bottle by the inside of your thigh which will warm the blood in major arteries. This will help warm up your entire body.
       
    4. Take a pee bottle to bed, so if you wake up and need to go to relieve yourself, you can do it with minimal movement. Just make sure your pee bottle is a different shape from your water bottle.
       
    5. Make sure your sleeping bag fits. If there is excessive room in the bag fill the space with clothing so you aren’t heating extra space.
       
    6. If it’s safe (no concerns about large mammals) have a bit of food which you can munch on in the middle of the night.
       
    7. Whenever possible, put you bag and clothing in the sun during the day whenever it’s possible to minimize moisture accumulation. 
       
    8. Reduce your “surface area” but keeping your legs together, your arms by your sides. That way your limbs will be warming each other rather than whatever is surrounding them.
       
    9. Sleep with someone warm: you spouse, a friendly dog, etc.  People joke about sharing body heat, but it really does help.
       
    10. Spend time before a trip training your body to be warm.
       
    11. Bring and use chemical warming pads.
       
    12. Bring a candle lantern… they give off a pleasant light and add a bit of heat to a small tent.
       
    13. Don’t overheat. If you feel hot then ventilate. Otherwise you will sweat which puts moisture into your insulation which will later chill you.
       
    14. While I don’t recommend this for extended trips, getting completely inside your sleeping bag or under your quilt helps pre-warm the air your breath as well as minimizes the amount of warmth you are blowing into the night. The downsize is that moisture will be accumulated which will eventually effect your insulation. I have found this isn’t a problem on trips that are a few days long.
    15. Radical Idea…. sleeping sitting up! There is a long tradition of outdoorsman, monks, and other wanders to sleep sitting up. This has the advantage of requiring less specialized equipment to be able to sleep comfortably. It’s not for everyone, but it seems like it would be quite a useful skill. I have not mastered this.

    There are a few additional ideas on 20 tips on sleep warm

  • Sleeping Pads

    Sleeping pads provide comfort which can enable a good night of sleep.  Waking up in the morning feeling worse than when you went to bed is no fun. Some people can sleep on the bare ground or maybe 1/8″ foam pads for some insulation. Glen suggests that a minimalist pad works great when you make a small LNT divot. I wish I could do that for the weight and volumes savings, but I can’t.  When I have tried more minimalist padding, not only have I not slept well, but in some cases I woke up with new aches which continues for several days (my hips in particular).  I have heard people assert that after a few days on the trail you will be able to sleep without a lot of padding because you have worn yourself out. This has not been my experience.

    There is an even more important reason to consider taking some sort of pad… and that’s to stay warm. Sleeping bags insulation is compressed by your body weight which means that it provides almost no insulation.  If you don’t have a pad, your body will try to warm what’s below you.  If the air temperature is high but the ground is cool, this might be nice.. but in most conditions you want insulation below you. The amount of insulation you need will vary depending on the air temperature, ground temperature, and what sort of “ground” you are sleeping on. For example, if you are in the mountains, sleeping on a large chunk of granite, you will find that the rock is a very effective heat sink, while if you are in a pine forest with lots of needles and soft earth below you, you need little or no insulation because the needles are taking care of you. Also note that sleeping on your side means that there is less surface area to insulate from below, side sleepers need less under insulation. Since different people require different amounts of insulation, I think it is most useful to talk about the “R” values of pads rather than what temperature a pad is good down to. Below are a list of full size pads sorted by warmth / weight:  My antidotal experience is that R2.5 is good down to around 30F, R4 is good down to around 20F, and R6.5 has been good down to around 0F as a slide sleeper. This page used to have a table of mats and their R values, but it is out of date.  It seem that the sectionhiker website has a much more up-to-date sleeping pad r-value table.

    There is a very comprehensive list of sleeping pads, a nice looking sleeping pad comparisons page and a spreadsheet of pads, and another list of pads.

    No matter what type of pad you select you need to decide the shape and length of the pad.  Personally I like pads which are mummy shaped, but full length.  Except in the cold weather, when you need maximum insulation, many people like 3/4 length pad.  Most people don’t put a lot of weight on their lower legs when they sleep so there is no need for the extra weight of a long pad.  Some people use torso sized pads to save even more weight.

    NOTE: If you use a pad which has air in it (air mattress or self-inflating) remember to lets some air out if the pad will be spending the day in a hot tent. Air expands as it gets warmer. I know several people who have damaged their pads by leaving them sealed and fully inflated at the beginning of a hot day.

    My Choice

    I have been using a UberLite for three season trips but it’s had two leaks so will likely get replaced by a Nemo Tensor Pad which is a bit heavier but more comfortable and less noisy. Both pads are rated for 30F and have been good down to 10F for me when combined with the torso length pad from my backpack.  I was able to sleep on my side down to 15F with just the NeoAir, but if I laid on my back or stomach it was clear the pad was not quite warm enough for most people because I could feel chill through the pad (which I like). At home I sleep with a chillipad set to “lowest” (<55F). I like a little heat leak from below. In colder conditions I combine my UberLite or my daughters “XTherm” NeoAir with a full length foam pad. If I did a lot more snow camping I would pick up a down insulated air mattress.

    Air Mattresses

    Good quality backpacking air mattresses are lighter and more compact than self inflating pads for equivalent comfort / thickness.  Of course if your air mattress is punctured, you have no padding, where a self inflating pad has at least a bit of padding. On the other hand, you can use them as rafts when crossing rivers.

    In warmer conditions un-insulated air mattresses can work well. On top of dirt or natural materials plan air mattresses can be used down to 35-40F with reasonable comfort… some people might be able to push them down to 30F.  I have found that un-insulated air mattresses aren’t sufficiently insulated on top of rock or snow when the air temperature is below around 50F.

    The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir have have been one of the benchmark pads. They are light, compact, true to the “R” rating. Downside is they can be a bit noisy when you move. I find my wife’s Big Agnes Q-Core SLX and Nemo Tensor Sleeping Pads more comfortable than any of our NeoAirs.

    In colder weather a down or synthetic filled air mattresses are ideal, providing comfort and nearly unbeatable warmth/weight ratio insulation. For most people I recommend synthetic filled air mattresses.  They weight slightly more than self inflating pads, but they are warmer, pack smaller, and I think are more comfortable. The lightest way get get an air mattress is to use balloons such as the the commercial balloonbed (my review) or make your own cheer-stick pad or a ultra-light poly-tube air mattress. 

    Foam Pads

    These days, most foam pads are closed-cell foam because they don’t soak up water, low cost, durability, and provide decent insulation.  Ultralight backpackers often like to use foam pads because they can become part of the suspension system for frameless backpacks and they can be trimmed down to save weight. In the winter, foam pads are often used during the day: as standing pads to help keep feet warm, or sitting pads which help keep the user warm and dry. They are also great in the winter because there is no risk of them failing. The cheapest form are the “blue pads” which you can find almost anywhere (from WalMart to REI) which cost less than $10.  Ultra-light packers often trim this pads down to so that it is only as large as their torso or purchase torso size pads.  Slightly more comfortable is Cascade Designs’ RidgeRest.  Cascade Design also makes the convenient folding Z-rest which has the unfortunate tendency to wear out with just moderate use.  I think the best foam pad are made from Evazote such as those sold by Gossamer Gear.

    Self Inflating Pads

    When I first starting backpacking in the 1970s self inflating pads from therm-a-rest were the most comfortable pad other than the Warmlite DAM which were extremely uncommon. These days I generally recommend spending the extra money to get one of the better air mattresses, or go with the significantly cheaper and more durable close cell foam pad.

    Hammocks

    Many people find hammocks, especially asymmetrical designs that provide an almost flat sleeping surface to be very comfortable. [I am not one of these people… I don’t like sleeping in hammocks.]  When you are worried about ground water, what could be better than being suspended several feet above what concerns you. See my hammocks post for more information. 

    Cots

    Typically large and heavy.  The original LuxuryLite cot was 30oz and packed up smaller than many pads. The now discontinued Cascade Designs version of the LuxuryLite Low Rise Cot was almost 3lbs.

    Pillows

    One of the most common approaches is to place extra clothing (which is pretty soft) into your sleeping bag stuff sack. The downside of this is that the stuff sacks might not be the most comfortable thing against your face. Therm-a-rest, REI, and Sea to Summit makes stuff sacks which have a light fleece sewn into them which can be more comfortable than a nylon only stuff sack. Some people bring inflatable pillows.

    Low Cost

    A cheap closed cell foam pad.  The “blue” pads can be found many places for less than $10.

  • Sleeping Bag & Quilt

    Sleeping bags and quilts can provide light-weight and compact insulation for a good nights sleep. I have found that you get what you pay for when it comes to sleeping bags and quilts. It’s also important to have insulation and comfortable surface to sleep on top of (pads for most, hammock – with an under-quilt in colder weather).

    My Choice

    I use a Ghost Blanket made in 2001 by Nunatak, one of the first companies to make a backpacking oriented down quilt. This quilt weights a mere 16 oz and is rated for use to 32F. In warm weather I lay the quilt loosely over my body.  As the temperature drops I tighten the straps on the quilt to block drafts, and add clothing as needed. I am comfortable using this quilt down to 30F when wearing a fleece hat, a light weight base layer, and wool socks.  In colder weather I have been comfortable by adding a down balaclava, insulated clothing, insulated socks, and enclosing the quilt in a MLD SuperLite bivy which has me comfortable to 10F. When I have all my clothing on and am still chilled I make myself as small as I can and pull my head under the quilt with only my mouth sticking out. In the past I would switch to a Western Mountaineering Versalite when I expected expected cold temperatures below 15F. My wife and I share an Enlightened Equipment Accomplice Quilt when backpacking together. If you are sleeping in conditions that are warmer than when you are active outside (like hiking between hostels) a modern version of a poncho liner might be a good option.

    Amount of Insulation

    There are a variety of factors which should be considered when selecting a how much insulation you want.  First you need to figure out what the lowest temperature you expect to face is.  Next you should consider if you are a “warm” sleeper or a “cold” sleeper.  For example, a WM VersaLite was very comfort at 0F when I was wearing Cap4 base layer while my wife though was perfect at 35F wearing fleece, a down vest, and warm hat!  Beside clothing, there are a number of things which will effect the comfort range of a sleep systems. Shelters that limit air movement such as solid tents or a bivy can add between 5-10F degrees of comfort,  liners can add 4-10F (most overstate how much they help). For other factors (and tricks) to stay warm, check out my getting a good night of sleep post.

    Dry, insulating clothing will boast the warmth of your sleeping system. Damp clothing can sap your warmth, which is why some people say sleep naked. Just remember that you need a lot more insulation than when sleeping (2X when standing around, 8X compared to when you are actively hiking). See my notes on insulating clothing for more information including a few strategies for matching your clothing and sleeping bag / quilt to your backpacking style.

    Around 2006 most companies started using the European rating system EN 13537 to describe the temperature comfort range of their sleeping bags. This includes a higher “comfort” number, and a “lowest” or “limit” rating which is how low to go where the average person won’t freeze to death but where your night will likely cycle between sleep, waking up cold, warming up a bit, and back to poor sleep. While this standard is an improvement over no standard at all, there have been a number of studies which have demonstrated there can be significant testing variance. I had hoped that this would get resolves by now, but it still seems to be an issue.

    There are several high quality companies such as Western Mountaineering use their own standards for temperature rating based on real world testing by the manufacturer and by customer reports. In most cases, the company’s “rating” is more conservative than EN 13537 testing results. For example EN 13537 testing result might be 0F, Western Mountaineering might list the bag as appropriate for 20F.

    According to testing done by the US army, the average person needs the listed loft to sleeping well. I have added an additional column which is the amount of loft on the top side of a Western Mountaineering bag for the specified temperature rating.  Nearly everyone agrees that Western Mountaineering bags are accurate (for people who sleep cold) and conservatively (for people who sleep warm).

    Effective TempArmyWestern Mountaineering
     +40F1.5″1.5″ (3″ total)
    +20F2.0″2.5″(5″ total)
    0F2.5″3.5″ (7″ total)
    -20F3.0″4.25″ (8.5″ total)
    -40F3.5″5″ (10″ total)

    Bottom line, no standard can tell you exactly how much insulation you will need. Use ratings as a starting point, take a thermometer on trips to record your experience. As time goes on you can figure out the amount of offset you need compared to the warmth rating.

    Type of Insulation

    I believe goose down is in most cases the best insulation material for sleeping bags and quilts. When sleeping in temperatures below 50F, down will be lighter weight and more compactly packed than any other insulation. If properly cared for, down can last five times longer than synthetic insulation which tends to break down as it is compressed. So while synthetic is cheaper at the time of acquisition, down can be cheaper over the long term. I recommend looking for ethically sourced down which is at least 700 fill power.

    If you need insulation over 50F and use a quilt, synthetic insulation will typically be lighter weight than down because the construction can be simpler. I found the combination of a piece of Alpha Direct inside a bag liner to be highly effective when it was more than 55F. My experience was written up on my poncho+liner page.

    The biggest concern with down is how moisture effects performance. I was very concerned about this when I started backpacking, and selected sleeping bags which used synthetic insulation. In 2001 I decided that I was being driven by fear and switch to down insulation. I came to recognized moisture came from two sources. The first is my perspiration. In warm conditions this isn’t a big deal. When facing consistent, sub-freezing conditions this can result in your perspiration getting frozen in the insulation before it escapes. The simple solution for this is to use a vapor barrier. The second is the insulation getting wet from external sources. This can be addressed by carrying your sleep gear in some sort of waterproof bag, and only taking it out of the bag when in a space which is dry. Since I switch to using a down quilt I have very rarely gotten the quilt wet. When I have (using a tarp which was too small) the down didn’t get sufficiently wet to impact performance, and I was able to dry it a day later when the sun briefly came out.

    When you can’t protect the bag / quilt from moisture it would be smart to use synthetic insulation. The big advantage of synthetic insulation isn’t so much “it’s warm while wet” but that it absorbed less water and is much easier to dry in the field. It is difficult to keep an insulating item dry when it is used as a garment while active and as insulation for sleeping such as the classic poncho liner, sometimes referred to as a woobie. The good news is that if you only need modest amounts of insulation, that synthetic ended up being about the same weight as an item made from down because more fabric is required in the down garment.

    For more details, I have a post about insulation materials.

    Styles

    Insulation filled blankets and specially design quilts with foot pockets have become increasingly popular with backpackers. Many have noted that quilts are cheaper and warmer / weight than more traditional sleeping bags. A quilt doesn’t need a zipper. A quilt is variable girth so you can wear all your clothing for added insulation under the quilt without compressing your insulation.  If you shift around at night, having your head insulation separated from the quilt removes any sense of being constrained or breathing into your hood. Downsides compared to a sleeping bag is that drafts, especially if you move a lot can be a problem, and that it will not be as constrained as a sleeping bag which means you will need a slightly larger groundcloth. In 2002 quilt had a significant warmth / weight advantage over most commercially made sleeping bags. Today quilts still have an advantage, but the gap is much smaller than it used to be due to improved designs and materials used by many manufacturers.

    Sleeping bags are the most common way people stay warm in the back country.  Sleeping bags come in a variety of shapes and styles.  Most common among backpackers is the so call mummy bag.  Mummy style bags are popular because the they minimize weight by having little wasted material and by providing a good seal around the head and shoulders to prevent heat from leaking out.  Mummy bags typically list the shoulder girth which varies from 55″-70″.  I have found that 62″ feels roomy as a 160lb 5’10” male, and 59” is adequate. Ideally there should be enough room to allow you to move as much as you need to be comfortable, but no more than necessary to minimize how much space you need to heat up and to minimize convection.

    Top-bags are a cross between a quilt and a traditional sleeping bag.  They have a sleep bag design combined with a fabric bottoms relying on the sleeping pad for insulation.  The theory is that you are going to crush any insulation which is under you, so why carry it around with you. An advantage of the top bag over quilts is they cut out any chance of drafts coming in through the sides. Top bags without zippers might be superior to a quilt’s warmth / weight, but I find them too confining.

    Rectangular bags are popular with some because they can be converted to a blanket or rectangular quilt and they provide a lot of room to move around.

    Half bags, sometimes called elephant foot bags such as the Nunatak Akula were popularized by climbers.  These looking like sleeping bags, but only cover the legs and are used in conjunction with an ultra warm jacket and hood to keep their upper body warm. Most backpacking find this system requires an insulating jacket which is too warm for normal use. Another “innovation” which hasn’t seemed to survive were sleeping bags with integrated arms which could be “worn”. Example of this were the now discontinued Lippiselk Bag, Exped Wallcreeper, and Nunatak Raku.

    Recently the company Zenbivy has developed a sleep system which they claim provides to be superior to both quilts and and sleeping bags. It seems the is a slight weight penalty compared to a sleeping bag with the potential benefit of a more comfortable sleep.

    Two or Three Season?

    As noted above there are a variety factors which can effect what sort of sleeping bag you might select. In most cases I would recommend against getting the warmest sleeping bag you can find since in most conditions you will be carrying unnecessary weight and you run the risk of overheating at night.

    I believe most people will be best served by getting a light-weight mummy bag or quilt which will keep them warm enough down to 20-30 F.  This will keep you comfortable in the conditions most people face on “3 season” outings and can be boasted with clothing or a liner. If you are regularly facing conditions below 10F, I would recommend having a winter bag or using an over-bag. Another approach for people are sleep outdoors in all four seasons is to use a summer weight bag which is appropriate for temperatures down to say 40F, and then use a warmer bag for the rest of the year.

    While I track general trends in the sleeping bag and quilt market, I haven’t been keeping close track of all the various models. , Cleverhiker’a  best sleeping bags matches my sensibilities and is more up-to-date than a page I might maintain.

    There are a few things I would either emphasis or add to their observations. First, Western Mountaineering makes amazingly high quality bags which are really “dialed in”. Feathered Friends continues to make excellent bags. Some of the best quilts made by Nunatakusa and Katabatic Gear. Cumulus makes good products at value prices. Enlightened Equipment are reasonable quality and easy to acquire. Hammock Gear is one of the best values. There is an extensive spreadsheet of quilts. BPL did a quilt survey in 2025. There top picks for performance were EE Enigma 20F Custom and HMG 20F. For value Gryphon Aries 20 and Hyberg Loner Lite 350 & 450. The also recommended the Katabatic Gear Palisade Quilt, Nemo Pulse, Outdoor Vitals Stormloft, REI Magma Trail Quilt 30, and Zenbivy Ultralight Quilt.

    I m recommend selecting a quilt that can lay fully flat by the feet. Some quilts have a foot pocket which is sewn close. While this can save weight while insuring good performance in colder conditions, it makes the quilt much less comfortable in warmer conditions when you might want some cooling drafts.

    Hints for Quilt Users

    When using a quilt it’s important to have a warm hat since typically your head will be outside the quilt. In colder conditions, I would recommend a high loft balaclava. It may be possible to drape a quilt over your head. On several shorter trips when it was surprisingly cold I pulled my head under the quilt which gave a boast in how warm I felt. On a longer trip I would have worried about the moisture from my breath condensing in the insulation… but so far this hasn’t been a problem I have experienced.

    Some people think quilts are inappropriate in colder conditions because movement can cause drafts and the colder it gets, the more the drafts will impact comfort. First, let me say that psychologically, there is something really nice about snuggling down into a warm, puffy sleeping bag which a quilt just doesn’t match… but I have found quilts work fine in colder conditions. First, a shelter system which blocks the wind (double walled tent, bivy, etc) can provide protection from winds. Additionally, quilt users are typically wearing high loft clothing as part of their sleep system which provides a second barrier against drafts. Furthermore, a quilt + clothing strategy typically results in an easier transition because you are already in warm clothing.  Finally, quilts are simple, so they use less material, are less likely to fail.

    There are some downsides of a quilt. First, they are more prone to drafts than a typical sleeping bag. So a sleeping bag will be warmer for weight when used by an extremely restless sleeper, especially if using a tarp in wind.

    A possible downside with using a quilt is that you will be sleeping directly on a pad, which typically isn’t breathable. Some people find this unpleasant. Some people say you can’t be a side sleeper with a quilt. I haven’t had a significant problem.  If you are doing this without a bivy you might sometimes run into insect problems. On one trip I was mobbed by ants. I could have mostly sealed a sleeping bag off, but there was not protection with the quilt. Confused yet? If not, you can look at a long thread arguing about quilts -vs- sleeping bags.

    Couples

    Couples often want to be able to sleep together. If a couple sleep close together, say spooned,  they should be comfortable in temperatures which are 10-15F colder than they would be comfortable in under the same insulation without someone else. I think the best solution is a down or high loft synthetic quilt which is large enough to drape well over two people such as the original Nunatak backcountry blanket or the current Enlightened Equipment Accomplice double quilt.  Thermarest Couple, Zpacks down and Sea2Summit Ember are other commercially made double quilts. Zenbivy Doublebed looks like an interesting system. You can also use a rectangular sleeping bag zipped open like Western Mountaineering’s MityLite. WM Coupler is a 1lb bottom sheet and pad holder than turns a single into a double sleeping bag. [There are lighter versions of this if you look around or willing to DIY. The most common approach is to have two sleeping bags which use the same zipper, with one bag having a left zip, and the other bag having a right zip. Personally, I have been less than happy with the sleeping bags zipped together. Zipping sleeping bags together often does not give this warmth advantage because the combination of the two bags has a tendency to billow a bit pushing warm air out. Additionally, they didn’t seal very well around the face and neck. If you place a high loft jacket around the opening that it can help the sealing problem but this has never been satisfactory for me.

    Suggestions of Winter Insulation

    In extreme cold,  it is almost a given that the dew point for your night-time perspiration will be somewhere inside your sleeping bag since there is a large temperature gradient being warm on the inside and below freeze at the shell.  As a result your insulation will accumulate moisture. Down bags are fine  for many  days but then you will find their performance dropping as they lose loft. Synthetics bags are better a maintaining loft as the accumulate moisture from condensation, but they to will also lose loft over time. Typically the most effective solution to this problem is to use a vapor barrier.  A vapor barrier is a waterproof layer which is placed between your body and your insulation which prevents you perspiration from entering your insulation and helps keep your skin moist. Your skin wants to be in approx 78% humidity and will perspiration to try and retain this.  You can use specially designed liner bags, wear vapor barrier clothing, or use a sleeping bag such as those from WarmLite which has  an integrated vapor barrier. Since you are protecting your bag from internal moisture, I would recommend using a highly protective external shell made from eVENT or DryLoft because you want maximum protection for your insulation and the vapor barrier will protect the insulation from condensation. You could also consider using an overbag, or an insulated liner combined with whatever you use in milder conditions. There have been several threads at BPL about combining sleeping bags and/or quilts for colder conditions. I would also note there are a number of winter techniques which will help you be safe and comfortable.

    Kids

    I don’t have young kids anymore so I am not on top of the best options. Most kids bags weren’t particularly great. Several companies will make custom length quilts, but these will be expensive and the kids will outgrow them.  We tried several kids bags and eventually settled on a Montbell Super Stretch bags which had a drawstring that let you shorten the bag in the field.  When my son was young he used the shortened bag, and now it’s used in it’s full length configuration. Alas, this feature no longer seem to be present.

    Low Cost

    I have completely lost track of the best budget sleeping bags. Years ago the Kelty Cosmic line of Down Mummy bags have been the recent price champs. These bags were optimistic in their ratings, but were well work the money. There was a thread about quilts/bags for >=40F which included some low-cost options. I have read several reports about bags and quilts from Aegismax such as the wearable, 30oz, 32F Windheard Wearable Quilt are a good value.

  • Insulation Materials

    Historically the three best choices are Down, Polarguard (especially 3D and Delta), and Primaloft, though Climashield sounds pretty good and will likely replace Polarguard as the most commonly use synthetic in the next few years. Each of these materials has different performance characteristics.  You will need to decide the relative weighting of these characteristics to determine what insulation material will be the best for you. My preference is high fill power down in most situations. When >50F synthetic insulation can reach (if not beat) down for both weight and compression due to simpler constriction.

    Down is “rated” in terms of “fill power”, that is the number of cubic inches one pound  will fill.  High fill power down has more down and less quills. There is a master’s thesis about a model of how down compresses. I would recommend staying away from any synthetics materials which are not Polarguard, Climashield or Primaloft since they will tend to be heavier for the same warmth and will will be less compressible.  You might be interested in a message explaining why the Cocoon jacket switched from Primaloft to Polarguard Delta though there I tend to prefer primaloft because my experience matches Richard’s report on BPL (link broken) that primaloft retains more insulation that polarguard after use. The following table gives you a sense of what 30F bags would be like using different insulation:

    FactorPolarguardPrimaloft PL1500-600 Fill Down>800 Fill Down
    Purchase Cost<$80 (low cost)
    $120-180 (high quality)    		$140-200$140-200>$250
    Long Term Durability4-7 years3-6 years10-15+ years10-15+ years
    ~Comparative Stuff Size2.2x1.8x1.4x1x
    Typical “30F” weight2.7-3.5lb3lb2.2lb1-1.5lb
    Warm When WetFair+ (dries faster)Fair (absorbs less)PoorPoor

    The are many factors that should be considered besides warmth / weight including durability, drape, and what techniques need to be used to stability the insulation. There is an interesting thread on BPL about the interplay of warmth, weight, and loft and R values and loft, and  EN 13537 and “clo” measurements.. The following is the best number I have found about the clo/oz numbers for a number of synthetics fills.  

    • Polarguard 3D, .63 clo/oz
    • Polarguard Delta, .68 clo/oz.
    • Climashield HL, .68 clo/oz.
    • Primaloft Sport, .74 clo/oz.
    • Climashield Combat, .79 clo/oz.
    • Climashield XP .82 clo/oz.
    • Primaloft One as .84 clo/oz

    There is a fair amount of controversy about how important of “warm when wet” is for a sleeping bag.  In truth… nothing is warm when wet.  The advantage of the synthetics are they don’t absorb a lot of water so you can squeeze most of the water out of the air gaps and be back on the way to a dry sleeping experience. If down gets wet, it’s going to take time to dry (hints drying down), and you are going to be cold. The key is not to let you down bag get wet. There are new treatments which nano-coats down so that it doesn’t absorb water. This “waterproof” down isn’t waterproof, but it should behave a lot like a synthetic insulation which would be a huge improvement in wet conditions.

    I recommend carrying sleeping bags / quilts in a drybag. Don’t take the bag out of the dry bag until you are somewhere where the bag won’t get wet. I used to think the getting down wet from splashing, rain, etc was an issue, but then I realized that in 30 years of camping, my sleeping bag or quilt hasn’t gotten wet enough to significantly impact the performance once. There have been several times when the shell has gotten damp, but I was able to dry it out enough in the field that it wasn’t a significant issue. I have had issues on extended trips in extreme cold… but this would effect all options. The solution is using  a vapor barrier.

    My dad had been using the same down sleeping bag for almost 25 years.  It’s not quite as lofty as it was originally, but it’s still usable. I switched to using a down bag in 2000, and am very happy for the change.

    There are some situations when I would consider a synthetic insulation: an extended trip in a location that has continuous, very damp conditions and the temperature was around freezing. If I was spending most of my time in locations in week+ long trips which were cool-cold and damp (say western Washington state) I would consider switching back to synthetic insulation.