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Author: mark

  • Last hours for Libby?

    Gaye, our primary hospice nurse stopped by today, even though it’s her day off. She believes that Libby is in her last hours based breathing patterns and several other indicators. We have been jumping between being unspeakable sad, in a numb disbelief, and brief periods of joy as we remember together what a blessing Libby has been to us all an look forward to her struggle to end with her in Jesus’ caring arms. We had a particularly nice bit of time with Gay, Janice, and Jon & Charina as Helen and I shared the story of the 5 bears.
    Last night was very tough because Libby was having some trouble breathing and was coughing through the night. Some additional medicine and a repositioning seems to have made her more comfortable. Libby seems to be without pain for which we are very thankful.We appreciate your prayers.

    Mark

  • quiet and peaceful

    Libby’s strength is waning.  This is very hard, but we are so grateful that Libby is comfortable and at peace. This is a vast improvement from confusion and restlessness of Tuesday.  We can’t begin to than you for your prayers.


    Libby’s body seems to be giving up the fight.  Her breathing is more erratic, and her limbs are generally not following orders, but Libby seems to be taking it in stride.  Yesterday afternoon we needed to move Libby to change the sheets. We asked if she could move her arm.  Nothing happen, though you could see concentration of her face.  We gave her time because we knew she wanted to try to do it herself.  After a minute or two she shifted her eyes to us.  I knew that look.  There was sadness but also a slight bit of humor.  When something is so absurd that you have to laugh. I asked “You you want us to help you move”.  You could see in the eyes and the most slight nod the answer was “Yes please. The traitorous  arm is not following the orders.”  Libby has a little Gumby which she tells me is a reminder “to be flexible”. We really need to keep this in mind these days.

    Even in the midst of this you can tell Libby is still there and listening. Most of the time she is laying back with her eyes closed. But sometimes something that is said as we share the day with her, maybe reading a note from one of you, or a visitor saying hello, or just reminiscing together as a family, her eye pop open and you can tell that she heard and wants to respond, even if she doesn’t have the energy to say anything.  The sweetest thing is watching her face.  Until yesterday afternoon the full smile continued to bloom, though she is losing energy for even that.  Last night when Helen kissed her mom before going to bed you could see the smile in her eyes. Libby’s lips only came up on one side but you knew it would have been a smile.  When I said goodnight, she tried to pucker her lips for a kiss. The lips didn’t do what she wanted, but the message was clear.  This morning Libby still seems comfortable and is resting.  Her eyes are still loving, though she seems to have lost the strength to smile.

    We continue to muddle along.  Folks have dropped off food which has been helpful for two reasons.  The first is that it’s hard to get excited about cooking, I would rather be keeping Libby company.  Secondly, Libby is a much better cook that me.  I was reminded of that when I made a small cake this morning. The corners were a bit more crisp than they should be, and the middle was a bit softer than ideal… but it is reasonably tasty in will go well with the Grater’s ice cream my mom arranged to be delivered here today.  So it will be cake and ice cream rather than our traditional popcorn when we watch NCIS tonight.

    –Mark

    Philippians 4:4-7

    Rejoice in the Lord always. Again I say, rejoice! Let everyone see your gentleness. The Lord is near! Do not be anxious about anything. Instead, in every situation, through prayer and petition with thanksgiving, tell your requests to God. And the peace of God that surpasses all understanding will guard your hearts and minds in Christ Jesus.

  • a brief respite

    Today Libby had a good morning and early afternoon.  She had a sense of peace and wasn’t confused.  We really appreciate your prayers.


    Yesterday was a heartbreaking day.  Libby didn’t want to drink anything.  Her breathing was very slow. She was confused and unable to communication without extreme effort. When she wasn’t sleeping she seemed like she was in a different world. When people visited she was able to rouse for a minute or two to greet them, sometimes with a couple of mumbled words, sometimes just a look.  Then she  would fall back into the other world or into sleep.


    Last night was the first night we had a nurse stay with us overnight as well as the first night Libby slept in the hospital bed that was just delivered. Libby, Helen, and I all slept reasonably well last night, and today has been much better.  The morning started with seeing a double rainbow through the window.  Better still, Libby has been much more alert.  She has even been able to utter several full sentences.  As you might expect, she wasn’t inclined to use her energy to clearly ask for things like “I am hot, help me with the blankets”, or “I would like to sit up more, please raise the bed”. These things we were still left to interpret minute expressions. How did she use her worlds?  To bless others: express appreciate, tell people that she loved them, words from from her heart.  Libby has also been much less confused.  When talking with Libby, you could see the fire behind the eyes, even if the words were brief.

    Libby spent the later morning with our friend Alice who have been a great help while I ran Helen to an appointment. This afternoon I read Libby emails, Facebook postings, and Caring Bridge guestbook entries that were left for Libby. She really appreciated the messages sent in by everyone. This was topped off by a Skype video call from our friend Laura who lives in Russia during which Libby found the energy to talk more than she has for several days.

    We know that this won’t last long, but for the time being, we are really enjoying BEING with Libby.

    For the last year Libby has enjoyed  A Guide to Prayer For All Who Seek God. Today was the first day I was able to read the week’s devotional to Libby.  I found it very appropriate, so I I will close with it’s affirmation from John14:1-3:

    Let not your hearts be troubled. Believe in God; believe also in me.  In my Father’s house are many rooms. If it were not so, would I have told you that I go to prepare a place for you?  And if I go and prepare a place for you, I will come again and will take you to myself, that where I am you may be also. 

  • goodbyes coming fast

    Last night we thought Libby had a couple of weeks.  Things seem to be progressing way faster than we expected.  We believe that we are counting the time remaining in a small number of days.  The hospice nurse observed that they often see with their younger patients that they stay at a high function level for longer, but when their strength fails then go downhill very quickly. This certainly seems to be what’s going on.


    This has been a very hard day so far.  Helen and I spent a good bit of the afternoon remembering what a blessing Libby has been to us, and reminding Libby how much of a blessing she is to us.  I would ask you to be praying for all of us to have a sense of peace, and confidence that Libby will be seeing something wondrous soon.

    Rev 21
    Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth; for the first heaven and the first earth passed away, and there is no longer any sea. And I saw the holy city, new Jerusalem, coming down out of heaven from God, made ready as a bride adorned for her husband.  And I heard a loud voice from the throne, saying, “Behold, the tabernacle of God is among men, and He will dwell among them, and they shall be His people, and God Himself will be among them, and He will wipe away every tear from their eyes; and there will no longer be any death; there will no longer be anymourning, or crying, or pain; the first things have passed away.” And He who sits on the throne said, “Behold, I am making all things new.” And He said, “Write, for these words are faithful and true.”  Then He said to me, “It is done. I am the Alpha and the Omega, the beginning and the end. I will give to the one who thirsts from the spring of the water of life without cost. 

  • beginning of goodbyes

    A bit more than a week ago  Libby’s brother Andy, my sister Marilyn, and my mother Anne flew into town to visit and likely to say goodbye in person.  The following day we have a gathering with around 80 close friends.  We didn’t plan a program of any sort, we just wanted to hang out with some dear friends.  We were delighted that a number of our friends who live in the bay area were able to stop by.  Our only regret was not being able to spend more time with each of the people there.  The time was made even more delightful but the appearance of several friends from out of town that we had no idea would be coming.  If that wasn’t enough we had some very thoughtful friends who couldn’t come (they are in Taiwan and Russia) , but ordered food or flowers which was delivered to the potluck.


    The time at the “party” was bittersweet.  It’s lovely to see friends and to introduce people who we love to each other.  At the same time, we couldn’t escape the fact that this gathering was so Libby could attend one more party with friends, since it’s unlikely she will be able to attend any more parties on this earth.

    It looks like the timing of the party was fortuitous.  In the week that followed the party we have seen Libby’s energy drop significantly. Libby more likely won’t have been up for a party the following weekend.  Libby is spending an increasing amount of time either sleeping or resting in quiet.

    The hospice folks provided a useful booklet that describes the process that people go through as they are releasing from this life. While none of us can know how much time is left, it seems that Libby is starting to show characteristics of someone whose time is counted in weeks rather than months.

    The most pronounced thing is that she is easily confused and is having an increasingly hard time communicating.  At times this has been humorous, we have repeatedly laughed as a family, but it is also heartbreaking.  She is now struggle with a lot of routine tasks.  We have moved her from using a laptop to an iPad because she was finding she couldn’t successfully use the laptop.  Windows, Outlook, and the Facebook Web UI were just too confusing.  Libby is still reading these a bit on the iPad but it’s unlikely she will have the energy to generating email, Facebook posts, or CaringBridge messages.  I will try to keep things up for her.

    People have asked what to pray for.  My request would be calmness and a sense of peace for us.  Three years ago Libby said “I am not done yet”.  There were things she felt called to do, to finish.  In the last month or two Libby has had a quiet confidence that she has been able to do what she needed to do.  That God would take care of those things not yet finished.  I can see Libby’s confidence in God’s love, and that she is looking forward to His warm embrace.  She had a real sense of peace.  In the last few days the difficulties communicating and confusion about what is going on has taken away some of that peace.  We would ask that she recapture the peace she had been feeling.

    –Mark

    Psalm 8
    The Lord’s Glory and Man’s Dignity.
    For the choir director; on the Gittith. A Psalm of David. 
    1 O Lord, our Lord, 
    How majestic is Your name in all the earth, 
    Who have displayed Your splendor above the heavens! 
    2 From the mouth of infants and nursing babes You have established strength 
    Because of Your adversaries, 
    To make the enemy and the revengeful cease. 
    3 When I consider Your heavens, the work of Your fingers, 
    The moon and the stars, which You have ordained; 
    4 What is man that You take thought of him, 
    And the son of man that You care for him? 
    5 Yet You have made him a little lower than God, 
    And You crown him with glory and majesty! 
    6 You make him to rule over the works of Your hands; 
    You have put all things under his feet, 
    7 All sheep and oxen, 
    And also the beasts of the field, 
    8 The birds of the heavens and the fish of the sea, 
    Whatever passes through the paths of the seas. 
    9 O Lord, our Lord, 
    How majestic is Your name in all the earth! 

  • Confirmation that Hospice is Good

    Libby and I were introduced to the idea of hospice several years ago by several friends and later learned a bit more from the book Dying Well by Ira Byock.  It seemed to both of us that hospice was a great idea.  That toward the end of life to make sure the quality of the time was maximized, rather than trying to keep life as long as possible, without regard to the dignity of the patient or the quality of their time.  This prospective was reenforced by reading the book Dying Well by Ira Byock.

    A few weeks ago Libby switched to hospice when we learned that there were no reasonable treatments left for the brain.  Unfortunately, hospice and insurance tends to be a bit legalistic.  They don’t want you to do things like chemo, even if chemo might be the most effective way to manage symptoms and improve quality of life.  There was some hope that chemo for the liver growth might be an effective way to reduce the pain Libby was feeling with minimal side effectives.  We arranged for Libby to start the chemo treatment a day before she switch to hospice knowing that hospice would be OK with finishing a treatment that was already started.

    This week we were to assess how much the chemo helped.  If it helped, Libby was going to do one more round.  Unfortunately doing another round of chemo would mean we would have to temporarily pull Libby from the hospice system because you aren’t allow to start treatments like chemo and still be considered a hospice patient (e.g. moving to hospice could be considered premature).

    This week we got the results about the effectiveness of the most recent round of chemo for the liver.  As far as we can tell, it was completely ineffective.  The liver cancer activity level increased significantly during the chemo treatment.  Thankfully, Libby has very minimal side effects from the chemo, so at least she didn’t have a significant drop of quality of life for an ineffective treatments. It is clear more than before that hospice is the right thing.

    The hospice folks are great. Everyone we have met views their hospice work as a calling.  They are focused on helping the patient (and family) make the most of the time they have left. The hospice folks have been very understanding about Libby’s energy levels. They have been quick to point out ways to save energy (like using a wheel chair and then providing one) so what little energy Libby does have can be invested in things that matter.  A second area they have been really helpful is pain management. For the last three years Libby has been struggling with finding treatments that would relieve her pain while still allowing her to think and function. Thanks to some changes the hospice folks suggested, Libby is now reporting average pain levels of 2 rather than 4 or more (on the 1-10 scale) that she has had for more of the last three years.  We are very thankful for this change because not only is the pain less, but she has more energy for activities.

    Last weekend we took a quick trip to happy hollow (san jose zoo) which we hadn’t been to in years.  We used a wheelchair so Libby wouldn’t get overly tired.  We had a great time remembering Helen’s youth.  Helen’s first comments were about how she remembered everything being so much bigger.  We had a great time.  In the coming weeks we are looking to do a lot more little things that are fun for our family, but not to taxing for Libby.  Visits (coffee, meals, etc) with friends and family, short trips in the bay area, etc.  Next weekend we will be enjoying some family visiting and a party with friends and the family in town.

  • Travel

    There are many reasons to travel. Some people travel to get new experiences. Others to discover the human condition is universal. Travel can be an expanding experience. It’s also possible to travel in a little “cocoon” which doesn’t move you out of your comfort zone and is merely entertainment. I appreciated the article 20 things I learned from travelling the world by gary arndt. I believe travel is over-rated (a critique of travel), and that if you really inhabit this movement of time, your current locale, that you would be overwhelmed by delight.

    Prepare

    These days, especially if you have a smart phone, you can get away with amazingly small amount of planning. I have done trips were we do our “planning” during breakfast, but generally I like to do a fair bit of planning before I go.

    Destinations

    Packing

    I am of the “one bag” mindset. That is minimize what you bring so everything can fit in a single, carry-on size bag to maximize your freedom.

    Other Concerns

    Sharing Economy & Community

    Service / Volunteering

    Mixing travel with service / volunteering / culture exchange can be extremely rewarding. Often you need to pay for the opportunity. Some will do an exchange of room/board for service. Be aware that many of these opportunities are scams. The other issue is that often volunteering doesn’t really help that much. Often a small amount of money in the hands of the people (such as micro financing) is much more effective. For long term service, things like the Peace Corp, Doctors without Borders, etc do great work, but you won’t be moving around. Some decent shorter term options:

    • servas – housing for service and understanding
    • WorkAway – no personal experience, but met a few people who liked it
    • wwoof – organic farming

    Low Cost Travel, Nomadic Life

    I am not a fan of the nomadic life for two reasons. First I really value community which is often best cultivated in a fixed location. Second, while working, I find the overhead of navigating life in a new location over taxes me. I don’t have the energy to deal with a new city and give my work my all.

    Tickets and Transport

    Hotels and Inns

    Food

    Misc Travel Info

  • Maui

    Maui is more touristy that I like.  The culture (except around the eastern coast) feels more like California than Hawaiian: go-go, play hard, have lots of fun, rather than a more lay back and enjoy life as it comes to you.  If you are looking for recreation rather than relaxation, Maui would be a great destination.

    ACTIVITIES:

    Swim and hang out on a beach

    Stop by the overlook for Ho’okipa Beach Park and see the amazing surfers

    Hawaii Nature Center, 875 Iao Valley Road, Wailuku 808-244-6500.  Museum open 10am-4pm.  Rainforest walk is at 11:30am and 1:30pm we days, 11:00 & noon on weekends.  The walk takes two hours.  The museum is good for 6-14 year olds for 30-60 minutes.

    Take a boat trip and see Dolphins, Whales, turtles, and/or Fish.   http://www.pacificwhale.org/ is well regarded.

    Maui Ocean Center Aquarium, Maalaea Harbor Village.  Nice aquarium focused mostly on local fish.  Much smaller than Monterey Bay aquarium… but the fish are much more colorful.

    Drive up the Volcano. The drive, the park its set in, and the view at the top is worth it. You drive above the clouds and its a very different Maui from the shoreline. If you hike down into it take lots of water and sunscreen.  Check weather: 1/3 of the time the top is socked in and you won’t get much of a view.  There are a number of companies which provide bikes and rain gear to cruise down the Volcano.

    FOOD:

    I have found Bruce & Kolleen’s Maui Restaurants & Maui Dining Guidefairly helpful.

    Roy’s Kahana Bar & Grill – Pacific Rim, Kahana Gateway, 4405 Honoapi ‘ilani Hwy (808/669-6999).  Good. Mostly a dinner place.  Kid friendly (two appetizers provided, but pasta only option for non meat eaters.)

    Maui Bake Shop & Deli

    Spago at 4 Seasons Resort, Wailea, 879-2999.  Dinner only.  In and out doors with nice view.  Nice menu, extra choices for kids.  

    David Paul’s Lahaina Grill, 667-5117.  Signature is tequila shrimp with firecracker rice which is excellent.

    Kula Lodge.  Decent food with a great view down from the Volcano.  377 just before 378. 878-153

    Chez Paul.

    Hali’imaile General Store – New Hawaiian. 900 Hali’imaile Rd, Hali’imaile (808/572-2666). This place is close to airport. In the middle of nowhere, so get directions before attempting. 

    PacificO – 505 Front Street, Lahaina, 667-4341

    IO, 505 Front Street Lahaina, 661-8422.  New pacific rim.

    The Gazebo,  a breakfast shack, walking distance from Napili Kai, near Kapalua. Great macadamia nut pancakes.

    Manana Garage, 33 Lono Ave, Kahului 873-0220 (ka’ahumanu intersection across from Chevron).  South american with pacific rim ingredients.  Theme around 1960s garage.  A small toy box provided to kids which is an old toolbox.

    Anuenue Room, Ritz-Carlton Kapalua Hotel.  Try the lamb and Grand Marnier / Chocolate souffle.

    Nick’s Fishmarket.  Kea Lani Resort, Wailea, 879-7224

  • Hawaii – The Big Island

    I love the Big Island. You get a more more diverse experience than any of the other islands.

    General Hawaii Information

    Hawaii: Off the Beaten Path by Sean Pager is a bit dated now, but I have found it to be the best single guidebook which covers all the Hawaiian islands though hotels and restaurants are likely out of date now.  I have yet to be disappointed by anything which was recommended in this book and there are very few things we have discovered which weren’t listed in this book.  The Hawaii Revealed books and now Smartphone apps are written by opinionated authors who provide greater detail than most guides.  I have found they list activities that are sometimes missed by other guides, but have found their restaurant assessments uneven. Konaweb is a very old school website which still has useful information.

    If you are looking for a B&B and don’t want the hassle of screening them try contacting Hawaii’s Best Bed & Breakfasts run by Barbara and Susan Campbell.  They have good taste and high standards. 

    Hawaii Wildlife Guide by Les Beletsky is a decent single volume book covering much of the wildlife you will find in Hawaii. Big Island Hikes is a good resource. Dolphins and other Cetaceans blow bubbles underwater and then use the bubble rings as toys. The Coffee Times has a number of interesting articles about Hawaiian history and culture.

    Kona Coast (and other places on the western side)

    We typically fly into the Keahole airport. The airport is in the middle of an old lava flow which is still mostly barren rock.  The airport tends to be hot and uninviting. If you are coming from Kauai getting off the plane might come as a shock and you might wonder if you have made a mistake.  Fear not.  The Big Island has a lot going for it.

    Kailua-Kona

    Around 15 minutes south of the airport is the city of Kailua-Kona.  This is the largest city on the island. There are a lot of condos, vacation homes, and few big hotels, as well as a number of small shopping centers. Kailua-Kona isn’t particularly Hawaiian, it could easily be a resort town in Florida. We found the Walmart to be one of the best places to pick up miscellaneous items.

    The old airport grounds are now a large public beach.  The marina at south end of the town is the debarking location of the Fair Wind, one of the better snorkeling cruises in the islands.  The Fair Wind has a lot of repeat business which speaks to how they treat guests.  Like most cruises the boat leaves early in the morning with a continental breakfast, sails down the coast to the Captain Cook Monument where they anchor off the coast for snorkeling and lunch before returning to the marina. They also have a smaller faster boat which goes to two destinations including one that almost always has sea turtles.  Joshua Lambus sometimes leads underwater tours. Hawaii Forest and Trail arranges a number of outdoor tours.

    Hawaiian Oasis is a very peaceful B&B which is a modest drive from Kailua-Kona. The original owners Mike and Christina Raymond designed the B&B (originally called Puanani B&B) and did did the landscaping which covers more than 2 acres. When it originally opened it was featured in Sunset magazine in April 1995 as one of the ten most beautiful places to stay in the west.  The facilities include a weight and exercise room, Jacuzzi, lap pool with BBQ area,  tennis court, access to a washer / dryer, and WiFi Internet access.

    None of the meals we had in Kailua-Kona were truly outstanding.  Ulu Ocean Grill, Beachcomber and La Bourgogne were decent. Some of my favorite are now closed including the Indonesian cuisine Sibu Cafe, and the Pacific Rim cuisine at Sam Choy’s Restaurant.

    Kona Coast

    South of Kailua-Kona are a number of small towns along Route 11.  This is the Kona Coast known for it’s coffee farms which often let you tour the grounds and sample freshly made coffee.  Very close to Kailua-Kona is the Heavenly Hawaiian coffee farm. As you head south along Route 11, you will find a numerous other coffee farms and a number of small towns.  Much of this route is above 1000 feet, cooler than Kona and can be foggy.

    If you head down Napoopoo Road you will find the Napo’opo’o Beach park which looks out onto Kealakekua Bay. The bay is a marine sanctuary which provides some of the best snorkeling in the Hawaiian islands and is frequented regularly by playful dolphins. Most of the snorkeling cruises which leave from Kailua-Kona come to this bay which houses the Captain Cook memorial. There are a number of companies which rent sea kayaks which launch from the Napo’opo’o Beach park. I used to recommend kayaking across the bay to the Captain Cook Memorial for the snorkeling, but I have heard (but not confirmed) that you can no longer pull the kayaks up at the memorial.

    You should not miss the Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Monument otherwise known as the Place of Refuge.  This is a recreation of a village which provided a refuge to early Hawaiians who violated kapu (laws). Sea turtles are often found in the small bay. There are a number of nice places to eat a picnic, hike, or take a swim.

    If you want to eat a meal in this part of the island I would suggest The Keei Cafe (best food), The Aloha Cafe (nice view), Aloha Angel Cafe also known as Aloha Theatre Cafe for reasonable food with a funky atmosphere.

    Kahala Resort Area

    North of Kailua-Kona is the Kahala area. There are a number of huge resorts.  Some people who visit the big island spend their entire time at one of these luxury resorts.  The resorts have many amenities, great restaurants, lots of activities, and beautiful beaches. This isn’t my thing, but lots of people love it. The Mauna Lani Hotel is arguably the best of the resorts. Besides all amenities found at the other resorts, the Maina Lani has what might be the best beach and the Puako Petroglyphs. Happily you don’t have to stay in the hotel to visit the beach or the petroglyphs. If you are looking for a good beach though, check out Hapuna Beach State Park which is the best beach I have ever visited and is always voted to be the best beach by locals. North of the resorts is Lapakahi State Historical Park which is a recreation of an ancient Hawaiian fishing village.

    All the resort hotels have excellent restaurants. The best meal we have eaten on the Big Island was served at Mauna Lani’s Canoe House. The restaurants at Mauna Kea and the Four Seasons (Pahuia) are also excellent. Roy’s Waikoloa Bar and Grill continues like most members of the chain deliver excellent food.

    Waimea, North Coast, and Mauna Kea

    Waimea Region is upland from the coast. It is one of our favorite places to stay. The pace of life seems slower than Kailua-Kona or Hilo. Thanks to the elevation the temperatures are cooler than much of the island while still being sunny. The beaches of the Kahala coast are only twenty minutes away. Waimea is the home to a number of cattle ranches including the famous Parker Ranch.

    Waimea Gardens B&B is one of the nicer B&Bs.

    There are a number of good restaurants around Waimea. In the past we really liked the Pacific Rim Cuisine at Daniel Thiebaut and breakfasts at The Maha Cafe but they are closed now :(.  We also enjoyed lunch at Aioli and Meeiman’s (more reasonably priced than dinner).  We thought Edelweiss was decent but over rated and not a great value when comparing the food to the prices we had to pay.  On the way to Hilo in Honokaa is Tex Drive In which has good burgers and yummy malasada (donuts without a hole).

    North of Waimea is the Waipi’o Valley which is one of the least developed parts of the island. Some people just stand at the overlook. The valley is nearly 1,000 feet below the overlook. If you aren’t feeling up to a hike you can arrange for a ride to the valley. The road is very rough… I think horseback is the best option if you aren’t hiking. The Waipio Valley Artworks is my second favorite gallery on the island. There used to be an amazing TreeHouse B&B in the valley, but it’s currently a private residence.

    Mauna Kea is more than 13k feet above sea level (making in effect the highest peak when you realize than there are an additional 20k feet from sea level to the sea floor).  On top of Mauna Kea are the  Mauna Kea Observatories.  The observatories aren’t extremely welcoming to visitors, but they occasionally host educational events.  There is a welcoming center at 9000 feet on the Kona side.  They have good quality amateur telescopes, hot chocolate and some of best sky watching I have ever experienced. Saddleback Road is often described as a four-wheel drive road. It’s all a sham to discourage people from drive up. Initially the road is in moderate condition.  Then there are a few miles which is basically a dirt road. Then, the road becomes a beautifully paved road. The weather tends to be 30F or more cooler than the coast, so either bring a winter jacket or go with one of the tours that provides warm clothing. The welcome center used to have warm jackets that you could borrow, but I believe this practice has now ended.

    Hilo & Puna Coast

    Often be overcast and rainy.

    World Botanical Gardens

    Panaewa Rainforest Zoo

    Fish market will be disappointing if you have been to the Tokyo market.

    Kapoho tide pools are great for snorkeling.

    Recommended food: Hilo Bay Cafe, Sombat’s (Thai), Don’s Grill (local food with great pies), Pescatore (classic Italians) Paolo’s Bistro (chef owner Tuscany food, friendly staff). The first time we ate at the Cafe Pesto we had an excellent meal. The second visit was just ok.

    Volcanoes

    You have to visit the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.  In this area you should expect the temperature to be 10-20 F less than the rest of the island, and you should expect constant rain when you visit the volcanoes. Beside hiking you should stop at the Volcano Art Center.

    West of the Volcanoes is the Punalu’u black sand beach where you can normally find sea turtles and good tide pools.

    Rather than staying in the the park itself, I would recommend staying at one of the local B&Bs or the quant Kilauea Lodge which has pleasant housing and one of our favorite restaurants on the island.  The food at Kiawe Kitchen was “ok”. I found the food at Thai Thai to be very disappointing. How can Thai food be bland?!

  • Kauai

    Kauai is a the very definition of a lush tropical island. Several movies were made here. Life in Kauai runs on a Hawaiian schedule which is slower than a typical US location. Years ago a grant was given to widen the bridge between Princeville and Wainiha from one lane (cars have to take turns) to each direction having their own lane. The locals successfully killed the project because they wanted to keep things slow.

    General Information

    Hawaii: Off the Beaten Path by Sean Pager is a bit dated now, but I have found it to be the best single guidebook which covers all the Hawaiian islands though hotels and restaurants are likely out of date now.  I have yet to be disappointed by anything which was recommended in this book and there are very few things we have discovered which weren’t listed in this book.  The Hawaii Revealed books and now Smartphone apps are written by opinionated authors who provide greater detail than most guides.  I have found they list activities that are sometimes missed by other guides, but have found their restaurant assessments uneven. 

    If you are looking for a B&B and don’t want the hassle of screening them try contacting Hawaii’s Best Bed & Breakfasts run by Barbara and Susan Campbell.  They have good taste and high standards.

    Hawaii Wildlife Guide by Les Beletsky is a decent single volume book covering much of the wildlife you will find in Hawaii. Dolphins and other Cetaceans blow bubbles underwater and then use the bubble rings as toys. The Coffee Times has a number of interesting articles about Hawaiian history and culture.

    Sites to Visit

    Koke’e State Park: on the south west end of the Island.   As you drive up to the park you have numerous overlooks into the 3000 foot canyon which has been called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.  Nice hiking trails.  At the top of the park is Kalalau lookout where you can look down on the Na Pali coast.  It can get cold and wet so bring a sweater and a rain jacket. Sometimes it’s so foggy you can’t see more than 5 ft.

    Limahuli Garden and Preserve: 1000 acres of beautiful plants with breath-taking scenery all around http://www.ntbg.org/gardens/limahuli.php

    Na Pali Coast:  Most people aren’t up to hiking the full length of the coastal trail.  The two other ways to see the coast are by boat or by helicopter.  Both are great experiences.  Depending on the time of year, the seas might be pretty rough resulting in either an exciting (or awful) trip depending on how susceptible to motion sickness you are.  We really enjoyed Catamaran Kahanu.  Captain Lani was great. Boats used to leave from the north side of the island which got you to the coast quicker, but there have been some issues raise by the EPA, so your only option might be leaving from the southern coast.  Most of the boat trips include a 1-3 hour snorkeling stop which can be a lot of fun.

    Food to Eat

    If you order fish in any restaurant, you can hardly go wrong… the fresh fish is great!

    Jo2 is Jean-Marie Josselin new restaurant. Food was decent, but not as amazing as I remembered his previous restaurant, A Pacific Cafe.

    Bali Hai in the Hanalei Bay Resort: I don’t normally like hotel restaurants, but the view is glorious at sun down, the food was excellent, and the service was outstanding.

    King and I: Good Thai food.  I didn’t like the Pad Thai, but all the sea food dishes were excellent.  They had an appetizer of shrimp with had a number of rice noodles poked through and then cooked.  It was wonderful.

    Tidepool’s in the Hyatt Regency in Poipu has good food and a fun atmosphere.  You seem to be sitting in grass-thatched huts, surrounded by pools filled with koe. The Hyatt is an amazing hotel.

    Barbecue Inn:  Reasonably priced family food in downtown Lihue.

    Roys: A well known Hawaiian chain. The food in Hawaii is much better than in the state side restaurants.